Teddy Bear in a
Vest and Top Hat
CROCHET PATTERN BY KRISTI TULLUS
Size
19,5 cm (7 2/3″) from head to toe, 23 cm including the hat,
when crocheted with DK weight cotton-linen blend and a
2,50mm crochet hook.
Skills Required
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rows, chain, slip, single
and half double crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing.
Difficulty
3. Intermediate – includes some less common crochet
techniques, color changes and simple shaping.
Materials & Tools
• Yarn. I used Katia ‘Linen’, a DK weight cotton-linen blend, 112 m=50g (122yd=50g) / 8 ply / 11 wpi.
You will need about 45 g of beige, 25 g of white and 25 g of black yarn.
• 2,50 – 3,00 mm crochet hook (US size 2/C – 3/D).
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding/padding for stuffing.
• 9 mm (3/8″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Two 20 mm (4/5”) and two 15 mm (3/5”) plastic doll joints or safety eyes or buttons and strong
thread.
• Dark brown or black embroidery floss.
• Yarn needle, sewing needle, scissors, stitch marker.
Choosing joints
Tip! You can use plastic doll joints, safety eyes, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread or even just thread
to attach the arms and legs. My favorite are plastic doll joints – they are easy to install, durable and
washable. Buttons and thread will work great as well, if you can’t get your hands on any joints.
Plastic doll joints
1. Plastic doll joints come in three
pieces – disk with a post, washer
and a fastener.
2. Disk with a post is placed inside
the limbs, pushing the post through
the fabric.
3. And then locked in place inside
the body.
Button and thread joints
Tip! Make sure you use very strong thread to attach the limbs – it will have to endure quite a bit of
tension and can be a bit difficult to mend, should it break. I have found cotton embroidery floss, nylon
sewing thread (doubled or tripled) or fishing line work really well.
1. Cut a length of yarn and draw it
through the holes in the button.
2. Place the button inside a limb,
drawing the yarn tails through the
fabric.
3. Place the other button inside the
body, draw the yarn tails through
the holes and knot them together.
Abbreviations
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = crochet n (number) single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop (see page 14).
• ch = chain stitch.
• sl st = slip stitch.
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• bpsc = back post single crochet stitch (see page 13).
• hdc = half double crochet stitch (half triple crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc (ch, hdc etc.) n = make n single crochet stitches (or ch, hdc etc.), one in each stitch.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• inc3 = double increase – crochet three single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• hdc-inc = half double crochet increase – crochet two half double crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 17).
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
Notes
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the
pattern.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round.
Copyright Info
Copyright © 2014 TÜ Spire. All rights reserved. Contents of this document may not be copied,
reproduced, altered, published or distributed in any way. You may sell finished products made with
this pattern, I would appreciate a credit as the designer (Kristi Tullus, kristitullus.com).
Head
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: sc 2, inc3 x 2, sc 4, inc3 x 2, sc 2 4: sc 4, inc x 3, sc 7, inc x 3, sc 3 5-7: sc in each st 8: sc 10, hdc-inc x 7, sc 9 9: inc, sc 7, inc, sc, hdc 2, hdc-inc, (hdc, hdc-inc) x 5, hdc 2, sc, inc, sc 6 10: sc 9, inc, sc 7, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 2, sc 8, inc, sc 5 11: sc 15, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 3, sc 10 12: sc, inc, sc 19, inc, sc 12, inc, sc 16 13: sc 28, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 22 |
(6) (12) (20) (26) (26) (33) (42) |
| (47) | |
| (51) (54) (56) |
Attach safety toy eyes between rows 8 and 9, leaving
12 stitches (count 11 holes) between them. Stuff the
muzzle and embroider the nose (see page 7).
| 14-22: sc in each st 23: (sc 12, dec) x 4 24: sc 5, dec, (sc 11, dec) x 3, sc 6 |
(56) (52) (48) |
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
| 25: (sc 10, dec) x 4 26: sc 4, dec, (sc 9, dec) x 3, sc 5 27: (sc 8, dec) x 4 28: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 29: (sc 3, dec) x 6 30: (dec, sc 2) x 6 31: (sc, dec) x 6 32: dec x 6 |
(44) (40) (36) (30) (24) (18) (12) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and close the opening (see page 8).
Ears (make 2)
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3-5: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (12) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears.
Right arm
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 4-5: sc in each st 6: sc 2, dec x 2, sc 6, inc, sc 3 7: sc 2, dec, sc 6, inc, sc 4 8: sc, dec x 2, sc 10 9: sc, dec, sc 10 |
(6) (14) (16) (16) (15) (15) (13) (12) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
With white yarn:
| 10-13: sc in each st 14: sc, dec, sc 9 15-19: sc in each st |
(12) (11) (11) |
Attach the disk with a stem between rows 18 and 19,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body (see page 9). Continue stuffing the arms.
| 20: sc 9, dec 21: dec x 5 |
(10) (5) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and close the opening (see page 8).
Left arm
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 4-5: sc in each st 6: sc 4, inc, sc 6, dec x 2, sc 7: sc 5, inc, sc 6, dec, sc |
(6) (14) (16) (16) (15) (15) |
Crochet one sc in next two stitches and count the last
sc as the end of the round from now on.
| 8: sc 10, dec x 2, sc 9: sc 10, dec, sc |
(13) (12) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
With white yarn:
| 10-13: sc in each st 14: sc 10, dec 15-20: sc in each st |
(12) (11) (11) |
Attach the disk with a stem between rows 19 and 20,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body (see page 9). Continue stuffing the arms.
21: sc 3, dec x 4 (7)
22: dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked (5)
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and close the opening (see page 8).
Legs (make 2)
With beige yarn:
1: ch 7, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc 4,
4 sc in first ch
Rotate and work on other side of beginning chain.
sc 4, 2 sc in last ch (16)
Continue working in spiral.
| 2: inc, sc 5, inc3, sc 2, inc3, sc 5, inc 3: inc3, sc 7, inc3, sc 4, inc3, sc 8 |
(22) (28) |
Work in back loops only on round 4!
| 4-5: sc in each st 6: sc, dec, sc 25 7: sc 8, dec x 3, sc, dec x 3, sc 6 8: sc 7, dec x 2, sc, dec x 2, sc 5 9: sc 6, dec x 3, sc 5 10: sc 7, dec, sc 5 |
(28) (27) (21) (17) (14) (13) |
Stuff the feet firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after
every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.
11-17: sc in each st (13)
On the left leg, crochet one sc in next 6 stitches. Count
the last sc as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the disk with a stem between rows 16 and 17,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body (see page 9). Continue stuffing the legs.
| 18: dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3 19: sc, dec x 5 |
(11) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and close the opening (see page 8).
Body
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 8-13: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (42) (42) |
Turn the body so the last stitch of round 13 is facing
away from you (center of the back). Attach the legs to
either side of the body, between rows 8 and 9 (see
page 10). Start stuffing the body.
With white yarn:
| 14: sc in each st 15: sc 9, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 9 16: sc 18, dec, sc 16, dec 17: sc in each st 18: (sc 11, dec) x 2, sc 10 19: sc 3, dec, sc 24, dec, sc 3 20: (dec, sc 14) x 2 21: sc 7, dec, sc 13, dec, sc 6 22: sc 10, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 23: (dec, sc 11) x 2 24: sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 5 25: sc 8, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 7 |
(42) (38) |
| (36) (36) (34) (32) (30) (28) (26) (24) (22) (20) |
With beige yarn:
| 26: sc in each st 27: sc 4, leave rest of the sts unworked |
(20) (20) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Attach the arms to either side of the body between
rows 22 and 23. Finish stuffing the body.
Vest
Vest is crocheted in rows, turning the work after
completing each row.
Start each row with ch 2, count them as the first hdc.
Crochet the last hdc of the next row into the last ch.
With black yarn:
| 1: ch 12, starting in 3rd ch from hook: hdc in each ch, turn 2-4: ch 2, hdc 10, turn 5-8: ch 2, hdc 4, turn 9: ch 2, hdc 4, ch 6, sl st in last st of row 4 10: ch 2, hdc 6 (into chain), hdc 4, turn 11-16: ch 2, hdc 10, turn 17-20: ch 2, hdc 4, turn |
(11) |
| (11) (5) (11) (11) (11) (5) |
|
| 21: ch 2, hdc 4, ch 6, sl st in last st of row 16 (11) | |
| 22: ch 2, hdc 6 (into chain), hdc 4, turn 23-25: ch 2, hdc 10, turn 26: ch 2, sc 5, crochet a chain long enough to fit about half way around your button, skip a stitch, sc 4 |
(11) (11) |
Sew a button to the vest. Weave in all yarn tails on
the wrong side.
Hat
With black yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: bpsc in each st 6-12: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (24) (24) |
Crochet round 13 in the front loops only.
| 13: (sc, inc) x 12 14: sc in each st |
(36) (36) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Head
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 13.
1. Place the eyes between rows 8 and 9 leaving
12 stitches (count 11 holes) between them.
2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of
the eyes before pushing the washer into place.
b) Embroider the nose.
1. Add a bit of stuffing to the muzzle. Insert the needle
from inside the head and bring it up just above the
second round. Make a long stitch going straight down.
2. Make a few stitches to mark the shape and size of
the nose.
3. Make small vertical stitches to form the nose. Try to
make the stitches the same length and very close to
each other.
4. Just keep stitching until your nose is big enough.
5. Make long horizontal stitches along the top and bottom
of the nose, hiding any imperfections.
6. Knot the yarn ends together inside the head.
c) Finish the head and close the opening.
1. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread
the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.
2. Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn,
inserting the needle from the center and under the
front loop only and draw the yarn through.
3. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly
closed.
4. Insert the needle through the center and bring the
yarn to the bottom of the head. Fasten and hide the
yarn tail.
d) Use yarn to shape the head.
1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head and
bring it up right next to the eye.
2. Go about half way around the eye and insert the
needle right next to the eye. Bring it to the bottom of
the head.
3. Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in
just a bit.
4. Knot the yarn tails together. Do the same with the
other eye.
Arms & Legs
a) Place the joint or a button inside the arms and legs.
1. Place the disk inside the limb so the stem is facing
straight towards the body.
2. Finish the arms and legs and close the opening (see
page 8).
Assembling the Bear
a) Sew the ears to the head.
1. Place the ears just behind round 18 of the head,
leaving 14 – 15 stitches between them.
2. Sew the ears to the head, inserting the needle
through both layers.
1. Pin the hat to the head.
2. Sew the hat to the head with back stitch between
rounds 12 and 13 of the hat.
c) Finish the arms and legs. Start making the body and attach the limbs as you go.
1. Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body
between rounds 8 and 9.
2. Finish the body. Attach the arms to either side of the
body between rounds 22 and 23.
d) Sew the head to the body.
1. Sew the head to the body (see page 18 -19), placing
it so the front edge is just behind round 14 of the head.
2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.
Vest
a ) At the end of rows 9 and 21, slip stitch into the end of rows 4 and 16, respectively, to create the
shoulder seam.
1. At the end of the row 9, slip stitch into the last stitch
of row 4.
2. This way creating the shoulder seam.
3. Start the next row with ch 2 and then continue
crocheting the row into the chain.
4. Continue crocheting the vest in rows.
b) On the last row, create a loop for the button. Sew a button to the vest.
1. Crochet a chain long enough to go about half way
around the button and then skip the last stitch, creating
a loop for the button.
2. Sew a button to the vest, making sure it’s at the
same height as your loop.
Crochet Stitches
BACK POST SINGLE CROCHET STITCH
Instead of crocheting single crochet stitches around the loops on top of a stitch, crochet them around
the post (vertical bar), inserting the hook from the back and going over the stitch.
1. Insert the hook through the stitch from back to front,
on the right of the post, going under both loops.
2. Go over the post of the stitch and bring the hook to
the back of your work on the other side of the post.
3. So now you have the post of the stitch on the hook.
4. Yarn over…
5. … and draw up a loop. Yarn over…
6. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
Amigurumi Essentials
MAGIC RING
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.
1. Make a loop about 2 cm / 1”
from the yarn end so the working
yarn goes over the yarn tail.
2. Grab the join between your thumb
and forefinger and insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the
loop on the hook.
4. Pull the yarn tight. This does
not count as the first stitch.
5. Hold the loop between your thumb
and forefinger. Insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and
draw through both loops on the
hook, completing the first sc.
7. Continue crocheting through the
loop and over the yarn tail until you
have the required number of sc-s.
8. Hold the last stitch between your
fingers, grab the yarn and pull …
9. … until the center is tightly
closed.
STARTING AN OVAL WITH A CHAIN
Use a chain as a base for an oval piece by crocheting the first row around the starting chain. Example:
1: ch 6, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc 3, 4 sc in first ch. Rotate and work into the chain from the other
side: sc 3, 2 sc in last ch (16)
1. Chain six. This will be the base
for the first round.
2. Insert the hook into the second
chain from hook.
3. Crochet two single crochet
stitches into this chain.
4. Crochet one single crochet
stitch in next three chains.
5. Crochet four single crochet
stitches in the first chain.
6. Rotate and work into the chain
stitches from the other side.
7. Crochet one single crochet
stitch in next three chains.
8. Crochet two single crochet
stitches in the last chain (total of
four stitches in this stitch).
9. Insert the hook in the first stitch
to join the round or start a new
round when crocheting in spiral.
CHANGING YARNS
A quick and easy, but clean way to change yarns when working in single crochet stitch.
1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet
stitch with the “old” yarn.
2. Tie the “new” yarn around the “old” yarn and push
the knot close to the piece.
3. Cut the “old“ yarn and knot the two yarn tails
together.
4. Yarn over with the new yarn.
5. And draw through both loops on the hook, completing
the single crochet stitch.
6. And then continue crocheting with the “new” yarn.
INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE
Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops.
Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease.
1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single
crochet stitch.
2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second
stitch and pick it up onto the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.
Yarn over …
4. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE
1. Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next
stitch.
2. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
3. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back.
4. And draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use
the yarn tail for sewing, stop here.
5. Go through the next stitch, back to front.
6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it
inside the piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle
below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the stitch tight.
3. Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the
needle under both loops.
4. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn
up last time and bring it up under the next stitch.
Draw the stitch tight.
5. Or you can go through the stitch back to front,
inserting the needle under both loops.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up
last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the
stitch tight.
8. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 – 4 or 5 – 7 and go
all around the open piece.
FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS
The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in
different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the
loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece.
1. Bring the yarn up through a hole
in the fabric.
2. Insert the needle under one
loop of a stitch right next to the
hole.
3. Pull until you have a small loop.
4. Knot the loop and yarn together,
making a double knot. Do not push
the first knot too close to the fabric.
5. Cut off the loop end.
6. Insert the needle into the same
hole, going up and through the
piece.
7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears
into the fabric.
8. Cut off the yarn close to the fabric.
9. Yarn tail will completely
disappear into the fabric.
