Teddy Bear in a Clown Costume
Crochet pattern by Kristi Tullus
Size
21cm (8 ¼”), with DK weight cotton-linen blend and a 2,50mm crochet hook (US size 2/B).
Skills required
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rounds, chain, slip, single, half double and double
crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing.
Difficulty
3. Intermediate – includes less common crochet techniques, color changes, small details.
Contact Info
Pattern includes unlimited support from me over email or Skype. Photo and video tutorials,
helpful tips and free modifications are available on my website.
Tip! You can use the same pattern to make larger or smaller toys by using finer or bulkier yarn. Make
sure to pick a crochet hook at least a size smaller than suggested on the yarn label and crochet tightly
enough to achieve a tight gauge that will not allow the stuffing to show through the fabric. You may
also need to adjust the size of the safety eyes, nose and joints.
Materials & Tools
• Yarn. I used DK weight cotton and linen blend, 112 m = 50 g (122 yd = 50 g) / 8 ply / 11 wpi / 3: light.
You will need about 32g of beige, 45g of green, 10g of purple, yellow, pink and 4g of white yarn.
• 2,50 – 3,00mm crochet hook (US size 2/C – 3/D) or according to the yarn.
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding for stuffing.
• 9mm (1/3″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Two 20mm (4/5”) and two 15mm (3/5”) plastic doll joints or safety eyes or buttons and thread.
• Embroidery floss.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
Choosing joints
Tip! You can use plastic doll joints, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread or even just thread to attach
the arms and legs. My favorite are plastic doll joints – they are easy to install, durable and washable.
Buttons and thread will work great as well, if you can’t get your hands on any joints.
Plastic doll joints
| 1. Plastic doll joints come in three pieces – disk with a stem, washer and a fastener. You can also use safety eyes. |
2. Disk with a stem is placed inside the limbs, pushing the stem through the fabric. |
3. And then locked to place inside the body. |
Button and thread joints
Tip! Make sure you use a very strong thread to attach the limbs – it will have to endure quite a bit of
tension and can be a bit difficult to mend, should it break. I have found cotton embroidery floss, nylon
sewing thread (doubled or tripled) or fishing line work really well.
| 1. Cut a length of yarn and draw it through the holes in the button. |
2. Place the button inside a limb, drawing the yarn tails through the fabric. |
3. Place the other button inside the body, draw the yarn tails through the holes and knot them together. |
Abbreviations
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = crochet n (number) single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop (see page 14).
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• hdc = half double crochet stitch (half triple crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• dc = double crochet stitch (triple crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• bpsc = back post single crochet stitch (see page 20).
• sc (ch, hdc etc.) n = crochet n single crochet stitches (or ch, hdc etc.), one in each stitch.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• inc3 = double increase – crochet three single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• hdc-inc = half double crochet increase – crochet two half double crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• hdc-inc4 = crochet four half double crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dc-inc3 = crochet three double crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 16).
• dc2tog = crochet two double crochet stitches together using the regular method.
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing the round.
Notes
• Work in a spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round.
• All stitches are worked into both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
• Crochet tightly enough to achieve a tight gauge that will not let the stuffing show through the fabric.
Head
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 8: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 9: (sc 7, inc) x 6 10: sc 3, inc, (sc 8, inc) x 5, sc 5 11-20: sc in each st 21: sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 5, sc 5 22: (sc 7, dec) x 6 23: sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 5, sc 4 |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (42) (48) (54) (60) (60) (54) (48) (42) |
Attach safety eyes between rows 17 and 18, leaving
10 stitches (count 9 holes) between them (see page 7).
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
| 24: (sc 5, dec) x 6 25: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 26: (sc 3, dec) x 6 27: (dec, sc 2) x 6 |
(36) (30) (24) (18) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the head firmly.
Muzzle
With white yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3: sc 2, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 2 4-5: sc in each st |
(6) (14) (20) (20) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the muzzle firmly.
Ears (make 2)
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 |
(6) (12) |
| 3: (sc 2, inc) x 4 4-6: sc in each st |
(16) (16) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Legs (make 2)
Shoes and legs are crocheted in one piece, starting
from the center of the sole.
Shoes are crocheted in joined rounds, starting each
round with a ch and joining with a sl st at the of the
round. Do not count them as stitches.
Start each round in the first stitch, the same one you
made the sl st into earlier.
With purple yarn:
1: ch 7, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4,
4 sc in first ch
Rotate and work on other side of beginning chain.
| sc 4, 2 sc in last ch, sl st in 1st sc 2: ch, inc, sc 5, inc3, sc 2, inc3, sc 5, inc, sl st in 1st sc 3: ch, inc x 2, sc 2, hdc 4, hdc-inc4, hdc 4, hdc-inc4, hdc 4, sc 2, inc x 2, sl st in 1st sc 4: ch, bpsc in each stitch, sl st in 1st bpsc With yellow yarn: 5-7: ch, sc in each st, sl st in 1st sc 8: ch, sc 6, dec, hdc, dc, dc2tog x 3, dc, dc2tog x 3, dc, hdc, dec, sc 5, sl st in 1st sc Start crocheting the legs in spiral. With beige yarn: |
(16) (22) |
| (32) | |
| (32) | |
| (32) (24) |
| 9: sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec x 2, sc, dec x 2, sc 3, dec, sc 2 10: sc 8, dec x 2, sc 6 11: (sc 3, dec,) x 3, sc |
(18) |
| (16) (13) |
Stuff the feet firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after
every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.
12-19: sc in each st (13)
On the left leg only, crochet one sc in next seven
stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round
from now on.
Attach the disk with a stem between rows 18 and 19,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body (see page 8).
| 20: dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3 21: sc, dec x 5 |
(11) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and fasten off. Close the opening (see page 8 – 9).
With yellow yarn, crochet a row of slip stitches
between rounds 8 and 9 (see page 9 – 10).
Bows (make 2)
Start with a magic ring, about 10 – 15 cm (4 – 6″) from
the yarn end and crochet the bow into the loop.
With pink yarn:
1: mr, (ch 4, tr 2, ch 4, sl st) x 2
Draw the loop tightly closed. Cut the yarn, leaving a
long yarn tail, and fasten off. Wrap the yarn tail
around the center of the bow a couple of times and
knot the yarn tails together on the wrong side.
Right arm
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 4-5: sc in each st 6: sc 2, dec x 2, sc 6, inc, sc 3 7: sc 2, dec, sc 6, inc, sc 4 8: sc, dec x 2, sc 10 9: sc, dec, sc 10 |
(6) (14) (16) (16) (15) (15) (13) (12) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
With pink yarn:
10: sc in each st (12)
Crochet round 11 in back loops only.
11: sc in each st (12)
With green yarn:
| 12-13: sc in each st 14: sc, dec, sc 9 15-20: sc in each st |
(12) (11) (11) |
Attach the disk with a stem between rows 19 and 20,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body (see page 8).
| 21: sc 9, dec 22: dec x 5 |
(10) (5) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and fasten off. Close the opening (see page 8 – 9).
Left arm
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 4-5: sc in each st 6: sc 4, inc, sc 6, dec x 2, sc 7: sc 5, inc, sc 6, dec, sc |
(6) (14) (16) (16) (15) (15) |
| Crochet one sc in next two stitches and count the last | |
| sc as the end of the round from now on. 8: sc 10, dec x 2, sc 9: sc 10, dec, sc |
(13) (12) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
With pink yarn:
10: sc in each st (12)
Crochet round 11 in back loops only.
11: sc in each st (12)
With green yarn:
| 12-13: sc in each st 14: sc 10, dec 15-21: sc in each st |
(12) (11) (11) |
Attach the disk with a stem between rows 20 and 21,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body (see page 8).
22: sc 3, dec x 4 (7)
23: dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked (5)
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and fasten off. Close the opening (see page 8 – 9).
Sleeves
Take the arm upside down and crochet the sleeve
into the row of loops left on round 11 (see page 10 – 11).
Attach the yarn with a slip stitch to the first stitch and
continue around the arm, starting in the first stitch:
With pink yarn:
| 1: ch, (sc 2, inc) x 4, sl st in 1st sc Fasten off and hide the yarn tails. |
(16) |
Body
With green yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 8-14: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (42) (42) |
Turn the body so the last stitch of round 14 is facing
away from you (center of the back). Attach the legs to
either side of the body, between rows 8 and 9 (see
page 12).
| 15: sc 9, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 9 16: sc 18, dec, sc 16, dec 17: (sc 11, dec) x 2, sc 10 18: sc 3, dec, sc 25, dec, sc 2 |
(38) |
| (36) (34) (32) |
Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.
| 19: sc 16, dec, sc 14 20: dec, sc 29 21: sc 7, dec, sc 13, dec, sc 6 22: sc 10, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 23: (dec, sc 11) x 2 |
(31) (30) (28) (26) (24) |
| 24: sc 6, dec, sc 10, dec, sc 4 25: sc 9, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 7 26: (dec, sc 8) x 2 27-28: sc in each st |
(22) (20) (18) (18) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Attach
the arms to either side of the body between rows 23
and 24. Finish stuffing the body.
Collar
With yellow yarn:
1: start with a slip knot about 10 cm (4”) (60)
from the yarn end and ch 22. Starting
in 3rd ch from hook, dc-inc3 in each ch
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and
fasten off.
Hat
With green yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (sc, inc) x 3 3: sc in each st 4: (inc, sc 2) x 3 5: sc in each st 6: (sc 3, inc) x 3 7: sc in each st 8: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 2, sc 3 9: sc in each st 10: (sc 5, inc) x 3 11: sc in each st 12: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 2, sc 4 13: sc in each st 14: (sc 7, inc) x 3 |
(6) (9) (9) (12) (12) (15) (15) (18) (18) (21) (21) (24) (24) (27) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the hat firmly.
Spots
Make 4 with pink, 3 with purple and 2 with yellow yarn:
1: mr, sc 7 (7)
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and
fasten off. Insert the hook through the first sc, front to
back, and draw the yarn tail through.
Head
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 23.
| 1. Place the eyes between rows 17 and 18 leaving 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between them. |
2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of the eyes before pushing the washer into place. |
b) Sew the muzzle to the head.
Tip! It is difficult to stuff a large open piece. I find it easiest to start pinning the muzzle to the head and
add stuffing as you go.
| 1. Start pinning the muzzle to the head, start adding fiberfill when you are about half way around it. |
2. Sew the muzzle to the head (see page 18). |
c) Embroider the nose.
| 1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head, leaving a short yarn tail. Make a long vertical stitch . |
2. Bring the yarn up where you want the nose to start and make horizontal stitches to form the nose. |
| 3. Keep stitching until the nose is big enough. | 4. Come back out through the opening under the head and knot the yarn ends together. |
Arms & Legs
a) Place the disk with a stem or a button inside the arms and legs.
| 1. Place the disk inside the limb so the stem is facing straight towards the body. |
2. Finish the arms and legs, stuff them firmly and close the opening (see below). |
b) Finish the arms and legs and close the opening.
| 1. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle. |
2. Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn, inserting the needle from the center and under the front loop only and draw the yarn through. |
| 3. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly closed. |
4. Insert the needle through the center and bring the yarn to the side of the limb. Hide the yarn tail. |
c) Finish the legs. Crochet a row of slip stitches between rounds 8 and 9.
| 1. Take the leg upside down. Insert your hook under the first stitch. Grab the yarn and draw up a loop. |
2. Yarn over… |
| 3. … and draw through the loop on the hook, attaching the yarn to the leg. |
4. Insert the hook under the next stitch and yarn over. |
| 5. Draw the yarn under the stitch and through the loop on the hook. |
6. Continue around the foot, repeating steps 4 and 5. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle under both loops of the first stitch and draw the yarn through. |
| 7. Insert the needle between the two loops of the last stitch and bring it to the side of the foot. |
8. Tug the yarn tail gently until the loop is about the same size as other stitches. Hide the yarn tails. |
d) Finish the arms. Crochet the sleeves into the row of loops left on round 11.
| 1. Take the arm upside down and locate the row of front loops left on round 11. Insert your hook under the first stitch, grab the yarn and draw up a loop. |
2. Yarn over and draw through the loop on the hook, attaching the yarn to the arm. |
| 3. Continue around the arm, crocheting the sleeve into the row of loops. |
4. Finish the sleeve, fasten off and hide the yarn tails. |
Bows
a) Make the bows and sew them to the legs.
| 1. Crochet the bow into the magic ring. | 2. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Draw the loop tightly closed. |
| 3. Wrap the yarn tail around the middle a few times. Knot the yarn ends together on the wrong side. |
4. Sew the bows to the shoes. |
Assembling the bear
Tip! Sew spots to the hat and body, muzzle, ears and hat to the head and embroider the nose before
you assemble your bear – this way you can fasten all yarn tails securely with a knot inside the pieces.
a) Sew the ears to the head.
| 1. Place the ears just below round 6 of the head. | 2. Push the ears flat and sew them to the head, inserting the needle through both stitches. |
b) Sew the spots to the hat and hat to the head.
| 1. Sew two pink, two purple and two yellow spots to the hat. |
2. Sew the hat to the body. |
c) Finish the arms and legs. Start making the body and attach the limbs as you go.
| 1. Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body. |
2. Finish the body. Attach the arms to the sides of the body between rounds 22 and 23. Sew spots to the body. |
c) Sew the head to the body.
| 1. Sew the head to the body (see page 18). | 2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam. |
Collar
a) Finish the collar and place it around the neck.
| 1. Place the collar around the neck. Thread the starting yarn tail onto a needle and make a stitch through the first chain. Hide the yarn tail. |
2. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle and insert it through the first dc, under both loops. Draw the yarn through. |
| 3. Insert the needle between the two loops of the last dc. Draw the yarn through. |
4. Grab the yarn tail and tug gently until the loops is the same size as other stitches. Hide the yarn tail. |
Amigurumi Essentials
Magic Ring
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round in to an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.
| 1. Make a loop an inch from the yarn end. Grab the join with your thumb and forefinger. |
2. Insert the hook through the loop from front to back, yarn over and draw up a loop. |
3. Yarn over and draw through the loop. |
| 4. Pull the yarn tight. This does not count as the first single crochet stitch. |
5. Start the first sc. Insert the hook through the starting loop from front to back. |
6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through both loops. |
| 7. Continue crocheting over the loop and the yarn tail until you have the required number of sc-s. |
8. Grab hold of the yarn tail and pull until the center is tightly closed. |
Starting an oval piece with a chain
Example:
1: ch 6, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 4 sc in first ch
Rotate and work on the other side of beginning chain.
sc 3, 2 sc in last ch (16)
| 1. Chain six. This will be the base for the first round. |
2. Insert the hook in to the second chain from hook. |
3. Crochet two single crochet stitches in to this chain. |
| 4. Crochet one single crochet stitch in next three chains. |
5. Crochet four single crochet stitches in the first chain. |
6. Rotate and work on the other side of the beginning chain. |
| 7. Crochet one single crochet stitch in next three chains. |
8. Crochet two single crochet stitches in the last chain (total of four stitches in this stitch). |
Invisible decrease
Tip! Alternatively, you can use the regular single crochet decrease – insert the hook through the first
stitch and draw up a loop, insert the hook through the second stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over
and draw through all loops on the hook.
| 1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single crochet stitch. Do not yarn over. |
2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second stitch and pick it up onto the hook. |
3. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops. Yarn over and draw through all loops. |
Changing yarn
| 1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet stitch with the “old” yarn. |
2. Tie the “new” yarn around the “old” yarn and push the knot close to the piece. Cut the “old“ yarn and tie the yarn tails together. |
| 4. Pick up the “new” yarn and draw through both loops. Continue crocheting with the “new” yarn. |
5. There will be a jolt where the yarn is changed and the stripes will not line up. |
Finishing an open piece
This is a way to finish an open piece that will later be sewn to another closed or open piece. If you
need to leave a yarn tail for sewing, stop after step 3.
| 1. Crochet a slip stitch in next stitch. | 2. Cut the yarn. Pull on the loop until the yarn tail comes through the stitch. |
| 3. Insert the hook through the next stitch from front to back and draw the yarn tail through. |
4. Insert the hook through the next stitch from back to front and draw the yarn tail through. |
Stuffing the pieces
Stuffing is what gives your finished amigurumi the shape, so take your time. Loosen the stuffing
between your hands and add a little bit at a time. Keep adding until your piece is firm and holds
shape.
If you start getting lumps, pull out all the stuffing, loosen it and start over. If you can see the stuffing
through the fabric, you have overstuffed. Then it is best to start over and stuff more lightly.
When using a dark colored or very bright yarn, it is best to stuff more lightly or use colored stuffing to
keep it from showing through the fabric.
Sewing an open piece to a closed piece with whip stitch
| 1. Bring the needle up through the fabric under a stitch of the open piece. Go down through both loops of the stitch and into the same hole. |
2. Bring the needle back up directly under the next stitch. |
3. Draw the yarn tight after every stitch. Make sure your stitches are parallel to one another. |
Joining two open pieces with mattress stitch
| 1. Holding the two pieces together, insert the needle behind a stitch (the vertical bar) directly under your yarn. Draw the yarn through. |
2. Then insert the needle into the hole where you brought the yarn up last time and go under the next stitch. Draw the yarn through. |
3. Do the same with the next stitch of the second piece. |
| 4. It is easier to see what you are doing if you don’t pull the yarn tight after each stitch. You can make 2-3 stitches like this. |
5. Then grab the yarn and pull the last few stitches tight. Continue all around the pieces. |
Fastening with a knot and hiding the yarn tail
This tutorial will show how to knot the yarn tail and hide it inside a piece. This method can be used
when the yarn tail and the main piece are the same color.
| 1. Bring the yarn up through the fabric after you have finished sewing. |
2. Insert the needle under one loop of a stitch right next to the hole. |
3. Pull until you have a small loop. |
| 4. Make a double knot. Do not push the first knot close to the fabric. |
5. Cut off the loop end. | 6. Insert the needle into the same hole, going up and through the piece. |
| 7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears into the fabric. |
8. Pull lightly on the yarn tail and cut it off close to the fabric. |
9. Yarn tail will completely disappear into the fabric |
Crochet stitches
Back post single crochet stitch
Instead of crocheting single crochet stitches around the loops on top a stitch, crochet them around the
post (vertical bar), inserting the hook from the back and going over the stitch.
| 1. Insert your hook through the stitch from back to front, on the right of the post. |
2. Continue across the post and insert your hook from front to back to the left of the post. |
| 3. Yarn over and draw up a loop. | 4. Yarn over and draw through both loops. |
| 5. This creates a nice sharp corner turning to the back of your work. |
