Sleepy Teddy Bear In
Pajamas And Bunny Slippers
CROCHET PATTERN BY KRISTI TULLUS
Size
23cm (9″) from head to toe, when crocheted with sport
weight cotton and acrylic blend and a 2,50 mm hook.
Skills Required
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rounds, chain,
slip, single, half double and double crochet stitch,
increasing and decreasing.
Difficulty
3. Intermediate – includes some less common crochet
techniques, color changes and simple shaping.
Materials & Tools
• Yarn. I used Alize ‘Cotton Gold’, a DK weight cotton-acrylic blend, 115 m = 50g (126 yd = 50 g) / 8 ply /
11 wpi. You will need about 50 g of beige, 55 g of blue and 18 g of white yarn.
• 2,50 – 3,00 mm crochet hook (US size 2/C – 3/D).
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding for stuffing.
• 9 mm (3/8″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Two 20 mm (4/5”) and two 15 mm (3/5”) plastic doll joints or safety eyes or buttons and thread.
• Embroidery floss in dark brown or black and pink.
• Two 10 – 12 mm (2/5 – 1/2”) buttons.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
Choosing joints
Tip! You can use plastic doll joints, safety eyes, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread or even just thread
to attach the arms and legs. My favorite are plastic doll joints – they are easy to install, durable and
washable. Buttons and thread will work great as well, if you can’t get your hands on any joints.
Plastic doll joints
1. Plastic doll joints come in three
pieces – disk with a post, washer
and a fastener.
2. Disk with a post is placed inside
the limbs, pushing the post through
the fabric.
3. And then locked in place inside
the body.
Button and thread joints
Tip! Make sure you use very strong thread to attach the limbs – it will have to endure quite a bit of
tension and can be a bit difficult to mend, should it break. I have found cotton embroidery floss, nylon
sewing thread (doubled or tripled) or fishing line work really well.
1. Cut a length of yarn and draw it
through the holes in the button.
2. Place the button inside a limb,
drawing the yarn tails through the
fabric.
3. Place the other button inside the
body, draw the yarn tails through
the holes and knot them together
Abbreviations
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = crochet n (number) single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop (see page 15).
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• hdc = half double crochet stitch (half triple crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• dc = double crochet stitch (triple crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• bpsc = back post single crochet stitch (see page 14).
• sc (ch, hdc etc.) n = crochet n single crochet stitches (or ch, hdc etc.), one in each stitch.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• inc3 = double increase – crochet three single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• hdc-inc = half double crochet increase – crochet two half double crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• hdc-inc4 = crochet four half double crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 18).
• sc2tog = crochet two single crochet stitches together using the regular method.
• dc2tog = crochet two double crochet stitches together using the regular method.
• dc + hdc = crochet all stitches in the same stitch.
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing the round.
Notes
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the
pattern.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the
marker up after completing each round.
Copyright Info
Copyright © 2014 TÜ Spire. All rights reserved. Contents of this document may not be copied,
reproduced, altered, published or distributed in any way. You may sell finished products made with
this pattern, I would appreciate a credit as the designer (Kristi Tullus, kristitullus.com).
Eyelids (make 2)
With beige yarn:
1: Start with a slip knot about 5 cm (2”) from
the yarn end and crochet a chain one stitch
longer than the diameter of your safety eyes.
Work into the loops on the back of the chains.
2: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch
except last, sl st in last ch
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and
fasten off.
Head
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: sc 2, inc3 x 2, sc 4, inc3 x 2, sc 2 4: sc 4, inc x 3, sc 7, inc x 3, sc 3 5-7: sc in each st 8: sc 10, hdc-inc x 7, sc 9 9: inc, sc 7, inc, sc, hdc 2, hdc-inc, (hdc, hdc-inc) x 5, hdc 2, sc, inc, sc 6 10: sc 9, inc, sc 7, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 2, sc 8, inc, sc 5 11: sc 15, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 3, sc 10 12: sc, inc, sc 19, inc, sc 12, inc, sc 16 13: sc 28, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 22 |
(6) (12) (20) (26) (26) (33) (42) |
| (47) | |
| (51) (54) (56) |
Attach safety toy eyes between rows 8 and 9, leaving
12 – 13 stitches (count 11 – 12 holes) between them.
Sew the eyelids to the head (see page 8).
Stuff the muzzle and embroider the nose (see page 9).
| 14-22: sc in each st 23: (sc 12, dec) x 4 |
(56) (52) |
24: sc 5, dec, (sc 11, dec) x 3, sc 6 (48)
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
| 25: (sc 10, dec) x 4 26: sc 4, dec, (sc 9, dec) x 3, sc 5 27: (sc 8, dec) x 4 28: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 29: (sc 3, dec) x 6 30: (dec, sc 2) x 6 31: (sc, dec) x 6 32: dec x 6 |
(44) (40) (36) (30) (24) (18) (12) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and close the opening (see page 10).
Ear
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3-5: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (12) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Hat
With blue yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: sc in each stitch 3: (sc, inc) x 3 4: sc in each stitch 5: (inc, sc 2) x 3 6: sc in each stitch 7: (sc 3, inc) x 3 |
(6) (6) (9) (9) (12) (12) (15) |
| 8: sc in each stitch 9: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 2, sc 3 10: sc in each stitch 11: (sc 5, inc) x 3 12: sc in each stitch 13: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 2, sc 4 14: sc in each stitch 15: (sc 7, inc) x 3 16: sc in each stitch 17: sc 3, inc, (sc 8, inc) x 2, sc 5 18: sc in each stitch 19: (sc 9, inc) x 3 20: sc in each stitch 21: sc 4, inc, (sc 10, inc) x 2, sc 6 22-29: sc in each stitch 30: (sc 5, inc) x 6 31: sc in each stitch 32: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 33: sc in each stitch 34: (sc 7, inc) x 6 35: sc in each stitch |
(15) (18) (18) (21) (21) (24) (24) (27) (27) (30) (30) (33) (33) (36) (36) (42) (42) (48) (48) (54) (54) |
With white yarn:
| 36: sc 3, inc, (sc 8, inc) x 5, sc 5 37: sc in each stitch |
(60) (60) |
With blue yarn:
| 38: (sc 29, inc) x 2 39: sc in each stitch |
(62) (62) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Legs (make 2)
With beige yarn:
1: ch 7, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc 4,
4 sc in first ch
Rotate and work on other side of beginning chain.
sc 4, 2 sc in last ch (16)
Continue working in spiral.
| 2: inc, sc 5, inc3, sc 2, inc3, sc 5, inc 3: inc3, sc 7, inc3, sc 4, inc3, sc 8 |
(22) (28) |
Work round 4 in back loops only.
| 4-5: sc in each st 6: sc, dec, sc 25 7: sc 8, dec x 3, sc, dec x 3, sc 6 8: sc 7, dec x 2, sc, dec x 2, sc 5 9: sc 6, dec x 3, sc 5 10: sc 7, dec, sc 5 |
(28) (27) (21) (17) (14) (13) |
Stuff the feet firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after
every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.
11: sc in each st (13)
With blue yarn:
12-17: sc in each st (13)
On the left leg only, crochet one sc in next 7 stitches.
Count the last sc as the end of the round from now
on.
Attach the disk with a stem (20 mm / 4/5”) between
rows 16 and 17, placing it so the stem is facing
straight towards the body (see page 10).
| 18: dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3 19: sc, dec x 5 |
(11) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and close the opening (see page 10).
Right arm
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 4-5: sc in each st 6: sc 2, dec x 2, sc 6, inc, sc 3 7: sc 2, dec, sc 6, inc, sc 4 8: sc, dec x 2, sc 10 9: sc, dec, sc 10 |
(6) (14) (16) (16) (15) (15) (13) (12) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
With blue yarn:
| 10-13: sc in each st 14: sc, dec, sc 9 15-20: sc in each st |
(12) (11) (11) |
Attach the disk with a stem (15 mm / 3/5”) between
rows 18 and 19, placing it so the stem is facing
straight towards the body (see page 10).
| 21: sc 9, dec 22: dec x 5 |
(10) (5) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and close the opening (see page 10).
Left arm
With beige yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 4-5: sc in each st 6: sc 4, inc, sc 6, dec x 2, sc 7: sc 5, inc, sc 6, dec, sc |
(6) (14) (16) (16) (15) (15) |
Crochet one sc in next two stitches and count the last
sc as the end of the round from now on.
| 8: sc 10, dec x 2, sc 9: sc 10, dec, sc |
(13) (12) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
With blue yarn:
| 10-13: sc in each st 14: sc 10, dec 15-21: sc in each st |
(12) (11) (11) |
Attach the disk with a stem (15 mm / 3/5”) between
rows 19 and 20, placing it so the stem is facing
straight towards the body (see page 10).
22: sc 3, dec x 4 (7)
23: dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked (5)
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and close the opening (see page 10).
Body
With blue yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 8: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 9-16: sc in each stitch |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (42) (48) (48) |
Turn the body so the last stitch of round 16 is facing
away from you (center of the back). Attach the legs to
either side of the body, between rounds 9 and 10.
Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.
| 17: sc 11, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 3, sc 11 18: sc 7, dec, (sc 5, dec) x 4, sc 7 19: sc 3, dec, sc 11, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 11, dec, sc 2 20: sc 9, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 8 21: sc in each stitch 22: sc 11, dec, (sc 3, dec) x 2, sc 10 23: sc in each stitch 24: sc 4, dec, sc 19, dec, sc 3 25: sc in each stitch 26: sc 11, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 9 27: dec, sc 11, dec, sc 11 |
(44) (39) (35) |
| (33) (33) (30) (30) (28) (28) (26) (24) |
Sc in next six stitches, count the last sc as the end of
the round from now on.
With beige yarn:
28: sc in each stitch (24)
Crochet round 29 in the back loops only.
29: sc 2, sc2tog, (sc 4, sc2tog) x 3, sc 2 (20)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Attach the arms to either side of the body between
rows 25 and 26.
Finish stuffing the body.
Collar
Take the body upside down and crochet the collar
into the row of loops left on round 29 (see page 11).
With white yarn:
1: Start in the stitch at the center of the back
and attach the yarn with a slip stitch.
ch 2, dc in the same stitch, (dc, dc-inc) x 5,
dc + hdc, ch, sl st, ch, hdc + dc, (dc-inc, dc) x 5
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off.
Make a stitch through the first dc (see page 12) and
weave in the yarn tails.
Slippers (make 2)
Slippers are crocheted in rounds, starting each round
with a ch and joining with a sl st at the of the round.
Do not count them as stitches.
Start each round in the first stitch, the same one you
made the sl st into earlier.
With white yarn:
1: ch 7, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4,
4 sc in first ch
Rotate and work into the chain from the other side..
| sc 4, 2 sc in last ch, sl st in 1st sc 2: ch, inc, sc 5, inc3, sc 2, inc3, sc 5, inc, sl st in 1st sc 3: ch, inc x 2, sc 2, (hdc 4, hdc-inc4) x 2, hdc 4, sc 2, inc x 2, sl st in 1st sc 4: ch, bpsc in each st, sl st in 1st bpsc 5: ch, sc 7, hdc 2, dc 14, hdc 2, sc 7, sl st in 1st sc 6: ch, sc 8, hdc 2, dc 12, hdc 2, sc 8, sl st in 1st sc |
(16) (22) |
| (32) | |
| (32) (32) |
|
| (32) | |
| 7: ch, sc 9, hdc 2, dc 2, dc2tog x 3, dc 2, (29) | |
| hdc 2, sc 9, sl st in 1st sc 8: ch, sc, sc2tog, sc 7, sc2tog x 2, sc, sc2tog x 2, sc 7, sc2tog, sc, sl st in 1st sc |
(23) |
Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail.
Bunny ears (make 4)
With white yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 5 2: (inc, sc) x 2, inc 3-4: sc in each st 5: (dec, sc 2) x 2 6: sc in each st |
(5) (8) (8) (6) (6) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Head
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 13.
1. Place the eyes between rounds 8 and 9 leaving
12 – 13 stitches (count 11 – 12 holes) between them.
2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of
the eyes before pushing the washer into place.
b) Make the eyelids and sew them to the head.
1. Start with a slip knot and crochet a chain one stitch
longer than the circumference of your safety eyes.
2. Flip the chain over and crochet into the loops on the
back of the chain.
3. Starting in second chain from hook, crochet one sc
in each chain except the last, then crochet a sl st in the
last chain. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing.
4. Place the eyelid over the eye and sew it to the head,
stitching over the top edge.
c) Embroider the nose
1. Add a bit of stuffing to the muzzle. Insert the needle
from inside the head and bring it up just above the
second round. Make a long stitch going straight down.
2. Make a few stitches to mark the shape and size of
the nose.
3. Make small vertical stitches to form the nose. Try to
make the stitches the same length and very close to
each other.
4. Just keep stitching until your nose is big enough.
5. Make long horizontal stitches along the top and bottom
of the nose, hiding any imperfections.
6. Knot the yarn ends together inside the head.
d) Finish the head and close the opening.
1. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread
the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.
2. Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn,
inserting the needle from the center and under the
front loop only and draw the yarn through.
3. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly
closed.
4. Insert the needle through the center and bring the
yarn to the bottom of the head. Fasten and hide the
yarn tail.
Arms & Legs
a) Place the joint or a button inside the arms and legs.
1. Place the disk inside the limb so the stem is facing
straight towards the body.
2. Finish the arms and legs and close the opening (see
page 10).
Body
a) Finish the arms and legs. Start making the body and attach the limbs as you go.
1. Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body
between rounds 9 and 10.
2. Finish the body. Attach the arms to either side of the
body between rounds 25 and 26.
b) Crochet the collar into the row of loops left on round 29.
1. Turn the body upside down and locate the stitch at
the center of the back. Insert the hook through the
stitch, grab the yarn and draw up a loop.
2. Yarn over and draw through the loop on the hook…
3. … attaching the yarn to the body.
4. Continue crocheting the collar into the row of loops.
5. Finish the collar and fasten off, leaving a long yarn
tail.
6. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle
through the first dc, under both loops, and draw the
yarn through.
7. Insert the needle between the two loops of the last
dc and draw the yarn through.
8. Grab the yarn tail and pull gently until the loop is
the same stitches as other stitches. Hide the yarn tails.
Assembling the bear
Tip! Sew the hat and ear to the head and buttons to the body before you sew the head to the body –
this way you can fasten all yarn tails securely with a know under the head or inside the body.
a) Sew the hat to the head.
1. Turn the hat so the end of the round will be covered
by the tip of the hat when folded down. Sew the hat to
the head with back stitch between the last two rounds.
2. Fold the tip of the hat down and sew it to the head,
making a few stitches through the hat.
b) Sew the ear to the head.
1. Place the ear over round 18 of the head.
2. Sew the ear to the head, inserting the needle
through both layers.
c) Sew the head to the body.
1. Sew the head to the body, placing it so the front edge
is just behind round 13 of the head (see page 19).
2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.
Slippers
a) Finish the slippers, sew the ears to the slippers and embroider the eyes and nose.
1. Sew the ears to the slippers between the last two
rounds.
2. Embroider the eyes and nose. Weave in all the yarn
ends.
Crochet Stitches
BACK POST SINGLE CROCHET STITCH
Instead of crocheting single crochet stitches around the loops on top of a stitch, crochet them around
the post (vertical bar), inserting the hook from the back and going over the stitch.
1. Insert the hook through the stitch from back to front,
on the right of the post, going under both loops.
2. Go over the post of the stitch and bring the hook to
the back of your work on the other side of the post.
3. So now you have the post of the stitch on the hook.
4. Yarn over…
| 5. … and draw up a loop. Yarn over… | 6. … and draw through both loops on the hook, completing the single crochet stitch. |
Amigurumi Essentials
MAGIC RING
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.
1. Make a loop about 2 cm / 1”
from the yarn end so the working
yarn goes over the yarn tail.
2. Grab the join between your thumb
and forefinger and insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the
loop on the hook.
4. Pull the yarn tight. This does
not count as the first stitch.
5. Hold the loop between your thumb
and forefinger. Insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and
draw through both loops on the
hook, completing the first sc.
7. Continue crocheting through the
loop and over the yarn tail until you
have the required number of sc-s.
8. Hold the last stitch between your
fingers, grab the yarn and pull …
9. … until the center is tightly
closed
STARTING AN OVAL WITH A CHAIN
Use a chain as a base for an oval piece by crocheting the first row around the starting chain. Example:
1: ch 6, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc 3, 4 sc in first ch. Rotate and work into the chain from the other
side: sc 3, 2 sc in last ch (16)
1. Chain six. This will be the base
for the first round.
2. Insert the hook into the second
chain from hook.
3. Crochet two single crochet
stitches into this chain
4. Crochet one single crochet
stitch in next three chains.
5. Crochet four single crochet
stitches in the first chain.
6. Rotate and work into the chain
stitches from the other side.
7. Crochet one single crochet
stitch in next three chains.
8. Crochet two single crochet
stitches in the last chain (total of
four stitches in this stitch).
9. Insert the hook in the first stitch
to join the round or start a new
round when crocheting in spiral.
CHANGING YARNS
A quick and easy, but clean way to change yarns when working in single crochet stitch.
1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet
stitch with the “old” yarn.
2. Tie the “new” yarn around the “old” yarn and push
the knot close to the piece.
3. Cut the “old“ yarn and knot the two yarn tails
together.
4. Yarn over with the new yarn.
5. And draw through both loops on the hook, completing
the single crochet stitch.
6. And then continue crocheting with the “new” yarn.
INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE
Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops.
Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease.
1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single
crochet stitch.
2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second
stitch and pick it up onto the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.
Yarn over …
4. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE
1. Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next
stitch.
2. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
3. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back.
4. And draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use
the yarn tail for sewing, stop here.
5. Go through the next stitch, back to front.
6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it
inside the piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle
below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the stitch tight.
3. Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the
needle under both loops.
4. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn
up last time and bring it up under the next stitch.
Draw the stitch tight.
5. Or you can go through the stitch back to front,
inserting the needle under both loops.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up
last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the
stitch tight.
8. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 – 4 or 5 – 7 and go
all around the open piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH MATTRESS STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle.
Insert the needle below the yarn tail
and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the yarn through. 3. Insert the needle under the
vertical bar of the next stitch.
4. Draw the yarn through. 5. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and bring it up under the next stitch.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Keep repeating steps 3 – 6. 8. Make a couple of stitches. Then
grab the yarn tail and draw the
stitches as tight as you can.
9. Go around the open piece,
drawing the yarn tight after every
couple of stitches.
FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS
The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in
different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the
loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece.
1. Bring the yarn up through a hole
in the fabric.
2. Insert the needle under one
loop of a stitch right next to the
hole.
3. Pull until you have a small loop
4. Knot the loop and yarn together,
making a double knot. Do not push
the first knot too close to the fabric.
5. Cut off the loop end. 6. Insert the needle into the same
hole, going up and through the
piece.
7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears
into the fabric.
8. Cut off the yarn close to the fabric. 9. Yarn tail will completely
disappear into the fabric.
