Rudy the Giraffe
CROCHET PATTERN BY KRISTI TULLUS
SIZE
28.5cm (11 1/4”) including horns, when crocheted with
DK weight cotton yarn and a 2,50mm hook.
SKILLS REQUIRED
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rows, chain, slip and
single crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing.
DIFFICULTY
3. Intermediate – includes some less common crochet
techniques, color changes and simple shaping.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
• Yarn. I used Cascade Yarns ‘Ultra Pima’, a DK weight 100% cotton yarn, 200m (220yd)/100g (3.5oz).
You will need about 54 g of yellow (3858 sunburst), 14 g of brown (3849 chipmunk), 12 g of green
(3741 shamrock) and 3g of white yarn (3718 natural).
• 2,50 – 3,00mm crochet hook (US size 2/C – 3/D).
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding/padding for stuffing.
• 9 mm (3/8″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Dark brown cotton embroidery floss.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
ABBREVIATIONS
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = crochet n (number) single crochet stitches into the adjustable loop (see page 12).
• ch = chain stitch.
• sl st = slip stitch.
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc (or sl st, ch etc.) n = crochet n single crochet stitches (or sl st, ch etc.), one in each stitch.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dbl-inc = double increase – crochet three single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 14).
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
COPYRIGHT INFO
Copyright © 2023 Kristi Tullus, TÜ Spire. All rights reserved. Contents of this document may not be
copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed in any way. You may sell finished products made
with this pattern, I would appreciate credit as the designer (Kristi Tullus, kristitullus.com).
NOTES
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the
pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the marker
up after completing each round.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
Head
With yellow yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 8: (sc 9, inc) x 4, sc 2 9-11: sc in each st 12: sc 5, inc, (sc 10, inc) x 3, sc 7 13-14: sc in each st 15: (sc 11, inc) x 4, sc 2 |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (42) (46) (46) (50) (50) (54) |
On round 16, place a stitch marker between stitches
25 and 26 (around the loops on top of the 26th stitch)
to mark the center of the face. Use it as guide when
placing the eyes.
16-19: sc in each st (54)
Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker,
between rounds 16 and 17, leaving 10 stitches (count
9 holes) between them (see page 6).
| 20: (sc 7, dec) x 6 21: sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 5, sc 4 |
(48) (42) |
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
| 22: (sc 5, dec) x 6 23: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 24: (sc 3, dec) x 6 25: (dec, sc 2) x 6 |
(36) (30) (24) (18) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the
head.
MUZZLE
With white yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 |
(6) (12) |
| 3: sc 2, dbl-inc x 2, sc 4, dbl-inc x 2, sc 2 (20) | |
| 4-5: sc in each st | (20) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the muzzle firmly.
Horns (make 2)
With brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3-4: sc in each st 5: (dec, sc) x 4 |
(6) (12) (12) (8) |
Start stuffing the horn. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the horns firmly.
With yellow yarn:
6-9: sc in each st (8)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the horns.
EARS (make 2)
With yellow yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: sc in each st 3: (inc, sc) x 3 4: (sc 2, inc) x 3 5: sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 |
(6) (6) (9) (12) (15) |
| 6: (sc 4, inc) x 3 7-9: sc in each st 10: sc 3, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 4 11: sc in each st |
(18) (18) (16) (16) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears.
BODY
With yellow yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7-11: sc in each st 12: (dec, sc 10) x 3 13: sc in each st 14: sc 5, dec, (sc 9, dec) x 2, sc 4 |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (36) (33) (33) (30) |
Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.
| 15: sc in each st 16: (dec, sc 8) x 3 17: sc in each st 18: sc 4, dec, (sc 7, dec) x 2, sc 3 19: sc in each st 20: (dec, sc 6) x 3 21: sc in each st 22: (sc 2, dec) x 5, sc 23-26: sc in each st |
(30) (27) (27) (24) (24) (21) (21) (16) (16) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, fasten off, and hide
the yarn tail inside the body. Finish stuffing the body.
LEGS (make 2)
With brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (sc 3, inc) x 4, sc 2 |
(6) (12) (18) (22) |
Crochet round 5 in back loops only.
| 5: in each st 6: (sc 6, dec) x 2, sc 6 7: sc 2, (dec, sc 5) x 2, sc 2 8: sc 5, (dec, sc 4) x 2 |
(22) (20) (17) (15) |
With yellow yarn:
9: sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)
Stuff firmly. Make a long vertical stitch along the front
of the hoof and draw it tight (see page 7 – 8).
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds,
stuffing the legs lightly.
| 10: dec, sc 12 11: sc 2, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 12-13: sc in each st 14: sc 5, dec, sc 4 15-30: sc in each st 31: (sc, dec) x 3, sc |
(13) (11) (11) (10) (10) (7) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the legs.
Arms (make 2)
With brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 |
(6) (12) (18) |
Crochet round 4 in back loops only.
| 4: sc in each st 5: sc 5, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 5 6: sc 7, dec, sc 7 7: sc 2, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 2 |
(18) (16) (15) (13) |
With yellow yarn:
8: sc 6, dec, sc 5 (12)
Stuff firmly. Make a long vertical stitch along the front
of the hoof and draw it tight (see page 7 – 8).
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds,
stuffing the arms lightly about half way up.
| 9: sc in each st 10: (sc 3, dec) x 2, sc 2 |
(12) (10) |
| 11-12: sc in each st 13: sc 5, dec, sc 3 14-15: sc in each st 16: sc 5, dec, sc 2 17-22: sc in each st |
(10) (9) (9) (8) (8) |
On the left arm only, sc in next four stitches. Count
the last sc as the end of the round from now on.
| 23: flatten the top and sc through both layers (see page 8). |
(4) |
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and
fasten off.
Tail
With yellow yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 5 2-3: sc in each st 4: sc 3, inc, sc 5-7: sc in each st 8: sc 4, inc, sc 9-10: sc in each st |
(5) (5) (6) (6) (7) (7) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the tail lightly.
Cut pieces of brown yarn and attach them to the tip
of the tail (see page 9).
Small Spots (make 4)
With brown yarn:
1: mr, sc 8 (8)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Large Spots (make 2)
With brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 |
(6) (12) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Scarf
With green yarn:
1: ch 50, staring in 2nd ch from hook, sc (49)
in each ch, turn
Crochet rows 2 – 5 in back loops only.
2-5: ch, sc in each st, turn (49)
Cut the yarn and fasten off. Weave in the yarn tails.
Attach a fringe to either end of the scarf (see page 9).
Head
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 19.
1. Place the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17,
leaving 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between them.
2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of
the eyes before pushing the washer into place.
b) Finish the muzzle and sew it to the head.
1. Start pinning the muzzle to the head, placing it just
below round 15. Keep adding stuffing as you go.
2. Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch (see
page 15 – 16).
c) Use yarn to shape the head.
1. Cut a length of yarn and thread it onto a needle.
Insert the needle from the bottom of the head and bring
it up right next to the eye.
2. Insert the needle right next to the eye on the other
side. Bring it to the bottom of the head.
3. Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in
just a bit.
4. Knot the yarn tails together. Do the same with the
other eye.
d) Embroider the nostrils.
1. Embroider the nostrils, making a few small stitches
over round 3 with dark brown embroidery floss.
2. Leave about 3 – 4 stitches between the two nostrils.
Arms & Legs
a) Make a long stitch along the front of the hoof with dark brown embroidery floss.
1. Finish the hoof and stuff it firmly. Insert the needle
from the top, leaving a short yarn tail, and bring it up
just above the last round you crocheted with brown yarn.
2. Go straight down and insert the needle through the
center of the first round.
3. Come back out through the opening. Grab the yarn
tails and draw the stitch very tight.
4. Knot the yarn ends together.
b) Finish the arms. Flatten the top and crochet over the opening with single crochet stitches.
Tip! Closing the opening by crocheting over it with single crochet stitches makes sewing it to the body
easier. Also, the arms will lay nicely flat instead of sticking out.
1. Push the top flat and insert the crochet hook through
both layers, skipping the last stitch.
2. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over …
3. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing a single crochet stitch.
4. Crochet over the whole opening with single crochet
stitches. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
TAIL & Scarf
a) Attach pieces of yarn to the tip of the tail.
1. Cut pieces of brown yarn, about 7 cm long.
2. Insert the hook under a stitch. Fold a piece of yarn
in half, grab the center and draw up a loop.
3. Use your hook to draw both yarn tails through the loop.
4. Grab the yarn tails and pull gently, drawing the loop
tight.
5. Attach yarn pieces over the first two rounds of the tail.
6. Use the same method to attach the fringe to the
scarf.
ASSEMBLING THE GIRAFFE
Tip! Sew the muzzle, horns and ears to the head and embroider the nostrils before you sew the head
to the body – this way you can fasten all yarn tails securely with a knot under the head.
a) Sew the horns to the head.
1. Place the horns just below round 4.
2. Sew the horns to the head with whip stitch (see
page 15 – 16).
b) Sew the ears to the head.
1. Flatten the ears and fold them in half lengthwise.
2. Place the ears just below round 10.
3. Start sewing the ear to the head, inserting the needle
through both layers.
4. When you reach the center, fold the ear in half and
sew the second side right next to the first one.
c) Sew the head to the body.
1. Sew the head to the body with whip or mattress stitch
(see page 18 – 19), I prefer the latter.
2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.
d) Sew the arms, legs, tail and spots to the body.
1. Sew the arms to the sides of the body, four rounds
below the head.
2. Sew the legs to the body with mattress stitch (see
page 17). Place them just above round 5, leaving 8 – 9
stitches (count 7 – 8 holes) between them.
3. Sew the tail to the body with mattress stitch (see
page 17), placing it just above round 5.
4. Sew one larger and two smaller spots to the front
and back of the body with whip stitch (see page 15 – 16).
Amigurumi Essentials
MAGIC RING
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.
1. Make a loop about 2 cm / 1”
from the yarn end so the working
yarn goes over the yarn tail.
2. Grab the join between your thumb
and forefinger and insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the
loop on the hook.
4. Pull the yarn tight. This does
not count as the first stitch.
5. Hold the loop between your thumb
and forefinger. Insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and
draw through both loops on the
hook, completing the first sc.
7. Continue crocheting through the
loop and over the yarn tail until you
have the required number of sc-s.
8. Hold the last stitch between your
fingers, grab the yarn and pull …
9. … until the center is tightly
closed.
CHANGING YARNS
A quick and easy, but clean way to change yarns when working in single crochet stitch.
1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet
stitch with the “old” yarn.
2. Tie the “new” yarn around the “old” yarn and push
the knot close to the piece.
3. Cut the “old“ yarn and knot the two yarn tails
together.
4. Yarn over with the new yarn.
5. And draw through both loops on the hook, completing
the single crochet stitch.
6. And then continue crocheting with the “new” yarn.
INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE
Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops.
Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease.
1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single
crochet stitch.
2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second
stitch and pick it up onto the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.
Yarn over …
4. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE
1. Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next
stitch.
2. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
3. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back.
4. And draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use
the yarn tail for sewing, stop here.
5. Go through the next stitch, back to front.
6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it
inside the piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle
below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the stitch tight.
3. Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the
needle under both loops.
4. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn
up last time and bring it up under the next stitch.
Draw the stitch tight.
5. Or you can go through the stitch back to front,
inserting the needle under both loops.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up
last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the
stitch tight.
8. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 – 4 or 5 – 7 and go
all around the open piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH MATTRESS STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle.
Insert the needle below the yarn tail
and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the yarn through.
3. Insert the needle under the
vertical bar of the next stitch.
4. Draw the yarn through.
5. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and bring it up under the next stitch.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Keep repeating steps 3 – 6.
8. Make a couple of stitches. Then
grab the yarn tail and draw the
stitches as tight as you can.
9. Go around the open piece,
drawing the yarn tight after every
couple of stitches.
JOINING TWO OPEN PIECES WITH WHIP STITCH
A quick and easy way to sew together two open pieces.
1. Finish the two pieces, leaving a long yarn tail on one
of them. Thread that yarn tail onto a needle.
2. Holding the two pieces together, insert the needle
through a stitch just below the yarn tail, going under
both loops, front to back.
3. Then go through the next stitch of the first piece,
inserting the needle under both loops, going back to
front.
4. Draw the stitch tight.
5. Then make a stitch through the next two stitches,
repeating steps 2 – 4.
6. Keep stitching, going all around the pieces. Draw the
yarn tight after every stitch.
JOINING TWO OPEN PIECES WITH MATTRESS STITCH
Mattress stitch is my favorite method for joining two open pieces – it creates a nice sturdy and clean
seam and helps to avoid a floppy head.
1. Holding the two pieces together,
insert the needle behind the vertical
bar of a stitch below the yarn tail.
2. Draw the yarn through.
3. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and go under the next stitch.
4. Draw the yarn through.
5. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and go under the next stitch.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Keep repeating steps 3 – 6. It’s
easier to see what you are doing, if
you don’t pull the yarn tight after
every stitch.
8. Make a couple of stitches. Then
grab the yarn tail and pull it as
tight as you can.
9. And the stitches will become
completely invisible. Keep stitching
going all around the pieces.
FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS
The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in
different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the
loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece.
1. Bring the yarn up through a hole
in the fabric.
2. Insert the needle under one
loop of a stitch right next to the
hole.
3. Pull until you have a small loop.
4. Knot the loop and yarn together,
making a double knot. Do not push
the first knot too close to the fabric.
5. Cut off the loop end.
6. Insert the needle into the same
hole, going up and through the
piece.
7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears
into the fabric.
8. Cut off the yarn close to the fabric.
9. Yarn tail will completely
disappear into the fabric.
