SIZE
27cm (10 2/3″) from head to toe, when crocheted with
DK weight wool-alpaca blend and a 2,50mm hook.
SKILLS REQUIRED
Crocheting in spiral, chain, slip and single and stitch,
increasing and decreasing.
DIFFICULTY
3. Intermediate – includes some less common crochet
techniques, color changes and simple shaping.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
• Yarn. I used DROPS ‘Lima’, a DK weight alpaca and wool blend, 100m=50g (109yd=50g) / 8 ply /
11 wpi / 3: light. You will need about 75 g of orange (0707 rust), 15g of brown (5610 deep taupe) and
15g of white yarn (0100 off white).
• 2,50 – 3,00mm crochet hook (US size 2/C – 3/D) or according to the yarn.
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding for stuffing.
• 9 mm (3/8″) safety eyes and a 12 mm (1/2”) safety nose or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Two 20 mm (4/5”) and two 15mm (3/5”) doll joints or safety eyes or buttons and thread.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
CHOOSING JOINTS
Tip! You can use plastic doll joints, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread or even just thread to attach
the arms and legs. My favorite are plastic doll joints – they are easy to install, durable and washable.
Buttons and thread will work great as well, if you can’t get your hands on any joints.
Plastic doll joints
1. Plastic doll joints come in three
pieces – disk with a stem, washer
and a fastener.
2. Disk with a stem is placed inside
the limbs, pushing the stem through
the fabric.
3. And then locked to place inside
the body
Button and thread joints
Tip! Make sure you use a very strong thread to attach the limbs – it will have to endure quite a bit of
tension and can be a bit difficult to mend, should it break. I have found cotton embroidery floss, nylon
sewing thread (doubled or tripled) or fishing line work really well.
1. Cut a length of yarn and draw it
through the holes in the button.
2. Place the button inside a limb,
drawing the yarn tails through the
fabric.
3. Place the other button inside the
body, draw the yarn tails through
the holes and knot them together.
ABBREVIATIONS
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = magic ring – start with an adjustable loop and crochet n (number) single crochet stitches
into the adjustable loop (see page 11).
• ch = chain stitch.
• sl st = slip stitch (single crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• hdc = half double crochet stitch (half triple crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc (or sl st, ch, hdc etc.) n = make n single crochet stitches (or sl st, ch, hdc etc.), one in each stitch.
• sc + sl st = crochet all stitches in the same stitch
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• inc3 = double increase – crochet three single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• hdc-inc = half double crochet increase – crochet two half double crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 13).
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
NOTES
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the
pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the
marker up after completing each round.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
COPYRIGHT INFO
Copyright © 2014 Kristi Tullus, TÜ Spire. All rights reserved. Contents of this document may not be
copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed in any way. Feel free to sell finished products
made with this pattern, I would appreciate a credit as the designer (Kristi Tullus, kristitullus.com).
HEAD
With white yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc3, inc) x 3 4: sc in each st 5: (inc, sc 2) x 5 6: sc in each st 7: (sc 3, inc) x 5 |
(6) (12) (15) (15) (20) (20) (25) |
With orange yarn:
| 8: sc in each st 9: (inc, sc) x 3, hdc, hdc-inc x 8, hdc, (sc, inc) x 4, sc 10: sc 11, hdc, (hdc-inc, hdc) x 7, sc 14 11: sc 8, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 4, sc 10 12: sc 22, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 23 13: sc, inc, sc 49, inc, sc 2 |
(25) (40) |
| (47) (52) (54) (56) |
Attach safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, leaving
13 stitches (count 12 holes) between them, and the
nose between the first two rounds (see page 7).
| 14-21: sc in each st 22: sc 5, dec, (sc 12, dec) x 3, sc 7 23: (sc 11, dec) x 4 24: sc 4, dec, (sc 10, dec) x 3, sc 6 25: (sc 9, dec) x 4 26: sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 3, sc 5 |
(56) (52) (48) (44) (40) (36) |
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
| 27: (sc 7, dec) x 4 28: sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 3, sc 4 29: (sc 5, dec) x 4 30: (dec, sc 2) x 6 31: (sc, dec) x 6 32: dec x 6 |
(32) (28) (24) (18) (12) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
fasten off and close the opening (see page 7).
EARS (make 2)
Make one with white and one with orange yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (sc, inc3) x 3 3: sc 2, inc3, (sc 3, inc3) x 2, sc 4: sc 3, inc3, (sc 5, inc3) x 2, sc 2 |
(6) (12) (18) (24) |
Sl st in next stitch and fasten off.
Align a white and orange piece, wrong sides facing.
Crochet over the edge with single crochet stitches,
inserting the hook through both layers (see page 8-9).
When you change yarns on row 5, do not tie the yarn
ends together, just pick up the yarn, leaving a short
tail.
Locate the middle stitch of the first inc3 and attach
the orange yarn with sl st. Starting in the same stitch:
5: sc 7, switch to brown yarn, sc, inc3, sc, switch
to orange yarn, sc 6, sc + sl st
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and
fasten off. Bring all other yarn tails to the wrong side
and knot them together inside the ear (see page 8-9).
LEFT ARM
With brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3-5: sc in each st 6: sc 3, inc, sc 5, dec x 2, sc 7: sc 4, inc, sc 5, dec, sc 8: sc 10, dec, sc |
(6) (14) (14) (13) (13) (12) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
| 9: sc 10, dec 10: sc 9, dec 11: sc in each st |
(11) (10) (10 |
With orange yarn:
12-23: sc in each st (10)
Attach the disk with a stem between rows 20 and 21,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body.
24: dec x 5 (5)
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
fasten off and close the opening (see page 7).
RIGHT ARM
With brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 3-5: sc in each st 6: sc 2, dec x 2, sc 5, inc, sc 2 7: sc 2, dec, sc 5, inc, sc 3 8: sc 2, dec, sc 9 |
(6) (14) (14) (13) (13) (12) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
| 9: sc, dec, sc 9 10: sc, dec, sc 8 11: sc in each st |
(11) (10) (10) |
With orange yarn:
| 12-22: sc in each st 23: sc 6, dec x 2 |
(10) (8) |
Attach the disk with a stem between rows 20 and 21,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body.
24: dec x 3, leave rest of the sts unworked (5)
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
fasten off and close the opening (see page 7).
LEGS (make 2)
With brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc) x 2 |
(6) (12) (18) (22 |
| 5: sc in each st 6: sc 7, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 9 7: sc 5, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 7 8: sc 5, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 6 9: sc 6, dec, sc 7 |
(22) (20) (17) (15) (14) |
Stuff the feet firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after
every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.
| 10: sc in each st 11: sc 6, dec, sc 6 12-16: sc in each st |
(14) (13) (13) |
With orange yarn:
17-26: sc in each st (13)
On the left leg only, sc in next 6 sts. Count the last sc
as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the disk with a stem between rounds 25 and
26, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards
the body.
| 27: dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3 28: sc, dec x 5 |
(11) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
fasten off and close the opening (see page 7).
BODY
With orange yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: sc 3, inc, (sc 8, inc) x 3, sc 5 8: (sc 9, inc) x 4 9-16: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (40) (44) (44) |
Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of the back. Attach the legs to the sides of the body,
between rounds 9 and 10 (see page 10).
| 17: (sc 9, dec) x 4 18: sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 3, sc 5 19: (sc 7, dec) x 4 20: sc in each st |
(40) (36) (32) (32 |
21: (dec, sc 14) x 2 (30)
Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.
| 22: sc in each st 23: sc 12, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 10 24: sc in each st 25: (dec, sc 5) x 4 26: sc in each st 27: sc 9, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 7 28: sc in each st 29: sc 5, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 4 30-31: sc in each st |
(30) (28) (28) (24) (24) (22) (22) (20) (20) |
32: sc 5, leave rest of the sts unworked (20)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Attach the arms to the sides of the body, between
rounds 27 and 28 (see page 10). Finish stuffing the
body.
TAIL
With white yarn:
| 1: mr, 6 2: (sc, inc) x 3 3: (inc, sc 2) x 3 4: (sc 2, inc) x 4 5: sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 3, sc 2 |
(6) (9) (12) (16) (20) |
With orange yarn:
| 6-9: sc in each st 10: (dec, sc 8) x 2 |
(20) (18) |
Start stuffing the tail. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the tail firmly.
| 11: sc in each st 12: sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3 13: sc in each st 14 sc 7, dec, sc 7 15: sc in each st 16: sc 7, dec, sc 6 17-18: sc in each st 19: sc 7, dec, sc 5 20-21: sc in each st 22: sc 7, dec, sc 4 |
(18) (16) (16) (15) (15) (14) (14) (13) (13) (12 |
| 23-24: sc in each st 25: (sc, dec) x 4 |
(12) (8) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the tail.
HEAD
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 13.
1. Place the safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, leaving
13 stitches (count 12 holes) between them and the nose
between the 1st and 2nd round.
2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of
the eyes and nose before pushing the washer into
place.
b) Finish the head and close the opening.
1. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread
the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.
2. Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn,
inserting the needle from the center and under the
front loop only and draw the yarn through.
3. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly
closed.
4. Insert the needle through the center and bring the
yarn to the side of the head. Fasten and hide the yarn
tail.
c) Use yarn to shape the head.
1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head,
between rounds 15 and 18, and bring it up right next
to the eye.
2. Go about half way around the eye and insert the
needle right next to the eye. Bring it to the bottom of
the head
3. Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in
just a bit.
4. Knot the yarn tails together. Do the same with the
other eye.
EARS
a) Finish the ear pieces, align them and crochet around the edge with single crochet stitches.
1. Align a white and orange piece, wrong sides facing.
Locate the middle stitch of the first inc3 and start
crocheting in this stitch.
2. Continue crocheting over the edge with single
crochet stitches, inserting the hook through both
layers.
3. When you change yarns, do not tie the yarn ends
together, just pick up the new yarn, leaving a short tail.
4. Finish the ear. Bring all yarn tails to the wrong side
and knot them together inside the ear.
ARMS & LEGS
a) Place the disk with a stem or a button inside the arms and legs.
1. Place the disk inside the limb so the stem is facing
straight towards the body.
2. Finish the arms and legs and close the opening (see
page 7).
ASSEMBLING THE FOX
a) Sew the ears to the head.
Tip! Sew the ears to the head before you sew the head to the body – this way you can fasten all yarn
tails securely with a knot under the head.
1. Place the ears just behind round 17 of the head,
leaving 7 – 8 stitches between them.
2. Sew the ears to the head, inserting the needle
through both layers.
b) Finish the arms and legs. Start making the body and attach the limbs as you go.
1. Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body
between rounds 9 and 10.
2. Finish the body. Attach the arms to either side of the
body between rounds 27 and 28.
c) Sew the head to the body.
1. Sew the head to the body (see page 14 – 15), placing
it so the front edge is just behind round 13 of the head.
2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.
d) Sew the tail to the body.
1. Place the tail just above round 8 of the body.
2. Sew the tail to the body (see page 16)
Amigurumi Essentials
MAGIC RING
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.
1. Make a loop about 2 cm / 1”
from the yarn end so the working
yarn goes over the yarn tail.
2. Grab the join between your thumb
and forefinger and insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the
loop on the hook.
4. Pull the yarn tight. This does
not count as the first stitch.
5. Hold the loop between your thumb
and forefinger. Insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and
draw through both loops on the
hook, completing the first sc.
7. Continue crocheting through the
loop and over the yarn tail until you
have the required number of sc-s.
8. Hold the last stitch between your
fingers, grab the yarn and pull …
9. … until the center is tightly
closed.
CHANGING YARNS
A quick and easy, but clean way to change yarns when working in single crochet stitch.
1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet
stitch with the “old” yarn.
2. Tie the “new” yarn around the “old” yarn and push
the knot close to the piece.
3. Cut the “old“ yarn and knot the two yarn tails
together.
4. Yarn over with the new yarn.
5. And draw through both loops on the hook, completing
the single crochet stitch.
6. And then continue crocheting with the “new” yarn.
INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE
Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops.
Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease.
1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single
crochet stitch.
2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second
stitch and pick it up onto the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.
Yarn over …
4. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE
1. Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next
stitch.
2. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
3. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back.
4. And draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use
the yarn tail for sewing, stop here.
5. Go through the next stitch, back to front.
6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it
inside the piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle
below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the stitch tight.
3. Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the
needle under both loops.
4. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn
up last time and bring it up under the next stitch.
Draw the stitch tight.
5. Or you can go through the stitch back to front,
inserting the needle under both loops.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up
last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the
stitch tight.
8. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 – 4 or 5 – 7 and go
all around the open piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH MATTRESS STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle.
Insert the needle below the yarn tail
and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the yarn through. 3. Insert the needle under the
vertical bar of the next stitch.
4. Draw the yarn through.
5. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and bring it up under the next stitch.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Keep repeating steps 3 – 6.
8. Make a couple of stitches. Then
grab the yarn tail and draw the
stitches as tight as you can.
9. Go around the open piece,
drawing the yarn tight after every
couple of stitches.
FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS
The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in
different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the
loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece.
1. Bring the yarn up through a hole
in the fabric.
2. Insert the needle under one
loop of a stitch right next to the
hole.
3. Pull until you have a small loop.
4. Knot the loop and yarn together,
making a double knot. Do not push
the first knot too close to the fabric.
5. Cut off the loop end.
6. Insert the needle into the same
hole, going up and through the
piece.
7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears
into the fabric.
8. Cut off the yarn close to the fabric.
9. Yarn tail will completely
disappear into the fabric.
