Lily the Piglet
CROCHET PATTERN BY KRISTI TULLUS
SIZE
26cm (10 ¼”) from head to toe, when crocheted with sport
weight cotton-acrylic blend and a 2,50mm hook.
SKILLS REQUIRED
Crocheting in spiral, chain, slip and single crochet stitch,
increasing and decreasing.
DIFFICULTY
3. Intermediate – includes some less common crochet
techniques, color changes and simple shaping.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
• Yarn. I used Alize ‘Cotton Gold’, a sport weight cotton-acrylic blend, 329 m=100g (360yd=3.53oz) /
14 wpi / 2: fine. You will need about 55g (180 m) of light pink and 20g (66m) of dark pink yarn.
• 2,50 – 3,00mm crochet hook (US size 2/C – 3/D) or according to the yarn.
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding for stuffing.
• 9mm (3/8″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Two 20mm (4/5”) and two 15mm (3/5”) plastic doll joints or safety eyes or buttons and thread.
• Black or dark brown embroidery floss.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
CHOOSING JOINTS
Tip! You can use plastic doll joints, safety eyes, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread or even just thread
to attach the arms and legs. My favorite are plastic doll joints – they are easy to install, durable and
washable. Buttons and thread will work great as well, if you can’t get your hands on any joints.
PLASTIC DOLL JOINTS
1. Plastic doll joints come in three
pieces – disk with a post, washer
and a fastener.
2. Disk with a post is placed inside
the limbs, pushing the post through
the fabric.
3. And then locked in place inside
the body.
BUTTON AND THREAD JOINTS
Tip! Make sure you use very strong thread to attach the limbs – it will have to endure quite a bit of
tension and can be a bit difficult to mend, should it break. I have found cotton embroidery floss, nylon
sewing thread (doubled or tripled) or fishing line work really well.
1. Cut a length of yarn and draw it
through the holes in the button.
2. Place the button inside a limb,
drawing the yarn tails through the
fabric.
3. Place the other button inside the
body, draw the yarn tails through
the holes and knot them together.
ABBREVIATIONS
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = crochet n (number) single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop (see page 12).
• ch = chain stitch.
• sl st = slip stitch (single crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• bpsc = back post single crochet stitch (see page 11).
• sc (or sl st, ch etc.) n = crochet n single crochet stitches (or sl st, ch etc.), one in each stitch.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• inc3 = double increase – crochet three single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 14).
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
NOTES
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the
pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
COPYRIGHT INFO
Copyright © 2018 Kristi Tullus, TÜ Spire. All rights reserved. Contents of this document may not be
copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed in any way. Feel free to sell finished products
made with this pattern, I would appreciate a credit as the designer (Kristi Tullus, kristitullus.com).
HEAD
With light pink yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 8: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 9: (sc 7, inc) x 6 10-15: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (42) (48) (54) (54) |
On round 16 place a stitch marker between stitches
24 and 25 (around the loops on top of the 25th stitch).
This marks the center of the face, use it as a guide
when placing the eyes.
| 16-17: sc in each st 18: sc 11, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 13, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 16 19-21: sc in each st 22: sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 5, sc 5 23: (sc 7, dec) x 6 24: sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 5, sc 4 |
(54) (60) |
| (60) (54) (48) (42) |
Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker,
between rows 16 and 17, leaving 10 stitches (count 9
holes) between them (see page 7).
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
| 25: (sc 5, dec) x 6 26: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 27: (sc 3, dec) x 6 28: (dec, sc 2) x 6 |
(36) (30) (24) (18) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the head firmly.
MUZZLE
With dark pink yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 |
(6) (14) |
| 3: sc 2, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 2 4: sc 3, inc x 3, sc 7, inc x 3, sc 4 5: bpsc in each st 6-7: sc in each st |
(20) (26) (26) (26) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Stuff the muzzle firmly and sew it to the head.
Embroider the nostrils. Use yarn to shape the head
(see page 7-8).
EARS (make 2)
With dark pink yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: sc in each st 3: (inc, sc) x 3 4: (sc 2, inc) x 3 5: sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 6: (sc 4, inc) x 3 7-9: sc in each st 10: (dec, sc) x 6 |
(6) (6) (9) (12) (15) (18) (18) (12) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Flatten the ears and sew them to the head (see page
10).
ARMS (make 2)
With dark pink yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 7 2: inc x 7 3: (sc, inc) x 7 |
(7) (14) (21) |
Crochet round 4 in back loops only.
| 4: sc in each st 5: sc 7, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 6 6: sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3 7: sc 8, dec, sc 6 |
(21) (18) (16) (15) |
Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from
now on.
With light pink yarn:
| 8: sc in each st 9: sc 7, dec, sc 6 |
(15) (14) |
Stuff firmly. Turn the arm so the end of the round is
at the back of the arm. Make a long vertical stitch
along the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going
from round 7 straight down, draw it very tight and
knot the yarn ends together (see page 8).
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds,
stuffing the arms firmly.
| 10: sc in each st 11: sc 7, dec, sc 5 12: sc in each st 13: sc 7, dec, sc 4 14: sc in each st 15: sc 7, dec, sc 3 16-23: sc in each st |
(14) (13) (13) (12) (12) (11) (11) |
On the left arm only, sc in next 6 stitches. Count the
last sc as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the 15 mm joint between rounds 22 and 23,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body (see page 9).
| 24: sc 5, dec x 3 25: dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked |
(8) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and
close the opening (see page 9).
LEGS (make 2)
With dark pink yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 |
(6) (12) (18) |
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)
Crochet round 5 in back loops only.
| 5: sc in each st 6: sc 8, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 8 7: sc 5, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 4 8: sc 9, dec, sc 8 |
(24) (21) (19) (18) |
Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from
now on.
With light pink yarn:
| 9: sc in each st 10: sc 8, dec, sc 8 |
(18) (17) |
Stuff firmly. Turn the leg so the end of the round is at
the back of the leg. Make a long vertical stitch along
the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going from
round 8 straight down, draw it very tight and knot the
yarn ends together (see page 8).
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds,
stuffing the legs firmly.
| 11: sc in each st 12: sc 3, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 2 13: sc in each st 14: sc 7, dec, sc 6 15: sc in each st 16: sc 7, dec, sc 5 17-28: sc in each st |
(17) (15) (15) (14) (14) (13) (13) |
On the left leg only, sc in next 7 stitches. Count the
last sc as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the 20 mm joint between rounds 27 and 28,
placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the
body (see page 9).
| 29: sc 9, dec, sc 2 30: sc 2, dec x 5 31: sc, dec, leave the rest of the sts unworked |
(12) (7) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and
close the opening (see page 9).
BODY
With light pink yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 8-14: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (42) (42) |
Turn the body so the last stitch of round 14 is at the
center of the back. Attach the legs to either side of
the body, between rounds 8 and 9 (see page 9).
| 15: sc 9, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 9 16: sc 18, dec, sc 18 17: (sc 11, dec) x 2, sc 11 18: sc 4, dec, sc 24, dec, sc 3 |
(38) |
| (37) (35) (33) |
Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.
| 19: sc 16, dec, sc 15 20: dec, sc 30 21: sc 7, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 6 |
(32) (31) (29) |
| 22: sc 14, dec, sc 13 23: sc 10, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 24: (dec, sc 11) x 2 25: sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 5 26: sc 9, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 7 27: dec, sc 18 28: sc 9, dec, sc 8 29: sc in each st |
(28) (26) (24) (22) (20) (19) (18) (18) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Attach
the arms to either side of the body between rows 24
and 25 (see page 9). Finish stuffing the body.
Sew the head to the body (see page 10).
TAIL
With light pink yarn:
1: ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook, (20)
2 sc in each ch, crocheted into the
loops on the back of the chain
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and
fasten off.
Sew the tail to the body (see page 10).
HEAD
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 24.
1. Attach the eyes to either side of the stitch marker,
between rows 16 and 17 leaving 10 stitches (count
9 holes) between them.
2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of
the eyes before pushing the washer into place.
b) Sew muzzle to the head and embroider nostrils.
1. Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch (see
page 15 – 16), placing it just below round 15.
2. Embroider nostrils with black or dark brown
embroidery floss, making a couple of short vertical
stitches to either side of round 2.
c) Use yarn to shape the head.
1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head and
bring it up right next to the eye.
2. Insert the needle right next to the eye on the other
side. Bring it to the bottom of the head.
3. Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in
just a bit.
4. Knot the yarn tails together. Do the same with the
other eye.
Tip! Sew the muzzle and ears to the head and embroider the nostrils before you sew the head to the
body – this way you can fasten all yarn tails securely with a knot under the head.
ARMS & LEGS
a) Use yarn to shape the hands and feet.
1. Finish the hoof and stuff firmly. Cut a length of light
pink yarn and thread it onto a needle. Insert the needle
from the top, leaving a short tail.
2. Go straight down and insert the needle just above
the first round.
3. Come back up through the opening. Grab the yarn
tails and draw the stitch very tight.
4. Knot the yarn tails together.
b) Finish the arms and legs, insert the joint and close the opening.
1. Insert the joint inside the arm or leg, pushing the
stem through the fabric, placing it so the stem is facing
straight towards the body.
2. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off.
Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Pick up all the
remaining stitches onto the yarn, inserting the needle
from the center and under the front loop only and
drawing the yarn through.
3. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly
closed.
4. Insert the needle through the center and bring the
yarn to the side of the limb. Hide the yarn tail.
BODY
a) Finish the arms and legs. Start making the body and attach the limbs as you go.
1. Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body
between rounds 8 and 9.
2. Finish the body. Attach the arms to either side of the
body between rounds 24 and 25.
ASSEMBLING THE PIG
a) Sew the ears to the head.
1. Place the ear just below round 6 of the head.
2. Push the ear flat and sew it to the head, inserting
the needle through both layers.
b) Sew the head to the body.
1. Sew the head to the body with whip or mattress stitch
(see page 18 – 19), I prefer the latter.
2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.
c) Sew the tail to the body.
1. Sew the tail to the body just above round 9.
Crochet Stitches
BACK POST SINGLE CROCHET STITCH
Instead of crocheting single crochet stitches around the loops on top of a stitch, crochet them around
the post (vertical bar), inserting the hook from the back and going over the stitch.
1. Insert the hook through the stitch from back to front,
on the right of the post, going under both loops.
2. Go over the post of the stitch and bring the hook to
the back of your work on the other side of the post.
3. So now you have the post of the stitch on the hook.
4. Yarn over…
5. … and draw up a loop. Yarn over…
6. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
Amigurumi Essentials
MAGIC RING
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.
1. Make a loop about 2 cm / 1”
from the yarn end so the working
yarn goes over the yarn tail.
2. Grab the join between your thumb
and forefinger and insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the
loop on the hook.
4. Pull the yarn tight. This does
not count as the first stitch.
5. Hold the loop between your thumb
and forefinger. Insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and
draw through both loops on the
hook, completing the first sc.
7. Continue crocheting through the
loop and over the yarn tail until you
have the required number of sc-s.
8. Hold the last stitch between your
fingers, grab the yarn and pull …
9. … until the center is tightly
closed.
CHANGING YARNS
A quick and easy, but clean way to change yarns when working in single crochet stitch.
1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet
stitch with the “old” yarn.
2. Tie the “new” yarn around the “old” yarn and push
the knot close to the piece.
3. Cut the “old“ yarn and knot the two yarn tails
together.
4. Yarn over with the new yarn.
5. And draw through both loops on the hook, completing
the single crochet stitch.
6. And then continue crocheting with the “new” yarn.
INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE
Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops.
Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease.
1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single
crochet stitch.
2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second
stitch and pick it up onto the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.
Yarn over …
4. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE
1. Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next
stitch.
2. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
3. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back.
4. And draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use
the yarn tail for sewing, stop here.
5. Go through the next stitch, back to front.
6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it
inside the piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle
below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the stitch tight.
3. Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the
needle under both loops.
4. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn
up last time and bring it up under the next stitch.
Draw the stitch tight.
5. Or you can go through the stitch back to front,
inserting the needle under both loops.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up
last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the
stitch tight.
8. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 – 4 or 5 – 7 and go
all around the open piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH MATTRESS STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle.
Insert the needle below the yarn tail
and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the yarn through. 3. Insert the needle under the
vertical bar of the next stitch.
4. Draw the yarn through.
5. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and bring it up under the next stitch.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Keep repeating steps 3 – 6.
8. Make a couple of stitches. Then
grab the yarn tail and draw the
stitches as tight as you can.
9. Go around the open piece,
drawing the yarn tight after every
couple of stitches.
JOINING TWO OPEN PIECES WITH WHIP STITCH
A quick and easy way to sew together two open pieces.
1. Finish the two pieces, leaving a long yarn tail on one
of them. Thread that yarn tail onto a needle.
2. Holding the two pieces together, insert the needle
through a stitch just below the yarn tail, going under
both loops, front to back.
3. Then go through the next stitch of the first piece,
inserting the needle under both loops, going back to
front.
4. Draw the stitch tight.
5. Then make a stitch through the next two stitches,
repeating steps 2 – 4.
6. Keep stitching, going all around the pieces. Draw the
yarn tight after every stitch.
JOINING TWO OPEN PIECES WITH MATTRESS STITCH
Mattress stitch is my favorite method for joining two open pieces – it creates a nice sturdy and clean
seam and helps to avoid a floppy head.
1. Holding the two pieces together,
insert the needle behind the vertical
bar of a stitch below the yarn tail.
2. Draw the yarn through. 3. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and go under the next stitch.
4. Draw the yarn through.
5. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and go under the next stitch.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Keep repeating steps 3 – 6. It’s
easier to see what you are doing, if
you don’t pull the yarn tight after
every stitch.
8. Make a couple of stitches. Then
grab the yarn tail and pull it as
tight as you can.
9. And the stitches will become
completely invisible. Keep stitching
going all around the pieces.
FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS
The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in
different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the
loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece.
1. Bring the yarn up through a hole
in the fabric.
2. Insert the needle under one
loop of a stitch right next to the
hole.
3. Pull until you have a small loop.
4. Knot the loop and yarn together,
making a double knot. Do not push
the first knot too close to the fabric.
5. Cut off the loop end.
6. Insert the needle into the same
hole, going up and through the
piece.
7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears
into the fabric.
8. Cut off the yarn close to the fabric.
9. Yarn tail will completely
disappear into the fabric.
