Donkey
CROCHET PATTERN BY KRISTI TULLUS
SIZE
35 cm (14″) from head to toe, when crocheted with worsted
weight merino wool and a 2,50mm hook.
SKILLS REQUIRED
Crocheting in spiral, chain, slip and single crochet stitch,
increasing and decreasing.
DIFFICULTY
3. Intermediate – includes some less common crochet
techniques, color changes and simple shaping.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
• Yarn. I used Titan Wool BBB ‘Full’, a worsted weight merino wool, 90m=50g (98yd=50g) / 8 wpi /
4: medium. You will need about 75 g of gray (#302), 25 g of dark brown (#8827) and 10 g of white
yarn (#100).
• 3,00 – 3,50mm crochet hook (US size 3/D – 4/E) or according to the yarn.
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding for stuffing.
• 12mm (1/2″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Two 20mm (3/4”) and two 30mm (1 1/5”) doll joints or safety eyes or buttons and thread.
• Embroidery floss.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
CHOOSING JOINTS
Tip! You can use plastic doll joints, safety eyes, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread or even just thread
to attach the arms and legs. My favorite are plastic doll joints – they are easy to install, durable and
washable. Buttons and thread will work great as well, if you can’t get your hands on any joints.
PLASTIC DOLL JOINTS
1. Plastic doll joints come in three
pieces – disk with a post, washer
and a fastener.
2. Disk with a post is placed inside
the limbs, pushing the post through
the fabric.
3. And then locked in place inside
the body
BUTTON AND THREAD JOINTS
Tip! Make sure you use very strong thread to attach the limbs – it will have to endure quite a bit of
tension and can be a bit difficult to mend, should it break. I have found cotton embroidery floss, nylon
sewing thread (doubled or tripled) or fishing line work really well.
1. Cut a length of yarn and draw it
through the holes in the button.
2. Place the button inside a limb,
drawing the yarn tails through the
fabric.
3. Place the other button inside the
body, draw the yarn tails through
the holes and knot them together.
ABBREVIATIONS
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = crochet n (number) single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop (see page 13).
• ch = chain stitch.
• sl st = slip stitch (single crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• bpsc = back post single crochet stitch (see page 12).
• sc (or sl st, ch etc.) n = crochet n single crochet stitches (or sl st, ch etc.), one in each stitch.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• inc3 = double increase – crochet three single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 15).
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
NOTES
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the
pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
COPYRIGHT INFO
Copyright © 2017 Kristi Tullus, TÜ Spire. All rights reserved. Contents of this document may not be
copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed in any way. Feel free to sell finished products
made with this pattern, I would appreciate a credit as the designer (Kristi Tullus, kristitullus.com).
HEAD
With white yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 7, inc) x 3 6: sc in each st 7: sc 3, inc, (sc 8, inc) x 2, sc 5 8: sc in each st 9: (sc 9, inc) x 3 |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (27) (27) (30) (30) (33) |
With gray yarn:
10: sc 4, inc, (sc 10, inc) x 2, sc 6 (36)
On round 11 place a stitch marker in the 21st stitch
to mark the center of the face.
| 11: sc 2, inc, (sc 5, inc) x 5, sc 3 12: (sc 6, inc) x 6 13: sc 18, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 20 14: sc 21, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 22 15: (sc 25, inc) x 2 16: sc 23, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 25 |
(42) (48) (50) (52) (54) (56) |
Attach safety eyes between rows 11 and 12, leaving
14 stitches (count 13 holes) between them (see page 7).
| 17-23: sc in each st 24: (sc 12, dec) x 4 25: sc 5, dec, (sc 11, dec) x 3, sc 6 26: (sc 10, dec) x 4 |
(56) (52) (48) (44) |
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
| 27: sc 4, dec, (sc 9, dec) x 3, sc 5 28: (sc 8, dec) x 4 29: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 30: (sc 3, dec) x 6 31: (dec, sc 2) x 6 32: (sc, dec) x 6 33: dec x 6 |
(40) (36) (30) (24) (18) (12) (6) |
Finish stuffing the head. Cut the yarn, leaving a long
yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining
stitches and close the opening (see page 7).
EARS (make 2)
With gray yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc, sc) x 3 3: (sc 2, inc) x 3 4: sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 5: (sc 4, inc) x 3 6: sc 2, inc, (sc 5, inc) x 2, sc 3 7: (sc 6, inc) x 3 8: (sc 11, inc) x 2 9-16: sc in each st 17: (dec, sc 11) x 2 18: sc in each st |
(6) (9) (12) (15) (18) (21) (24) (26) (26) (24) (24) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears.
ARMS (make 2)
With dark brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 7 2: inc x 7 3: (sc, inc) x 7 4: (inc, sc 2) x 7 5: bpsc in each st 6: sc 7, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 2, sc 7 7: sc 9, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 9 8: sc 6, dec, (sc 3, dec) x 2, sc 5 |
(7) (14) (21) (28) (28) (25) (23) (20) |
Stuff the hooves firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
With gray yarn:
| 9: sc 3, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 3, (dec, sc 2) x 2 10: sc 8, dec, sc 6 11: sc in each st 12: sc 8, dec, sc 5 13: sc in each st 14: sc 8, dec, sc 4 15-16: sc in each st 17: sc 8, dec, sc 3 18-31: sc in each st |
(16) (15) (15) (14) (14) (13) (13) (12) (12) |
On the right arm only, sc in next 6 stitches. Count the
last stitch as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the joint between rows 30 and 31, placing it so
the stem is facing straight towards the body (see
page 9).
32: sc 2, dec x 5 (7)
Finish stuffing the arms. Cut the yarn, leaving a long
yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining
stitches and close the opening (see page 7).
LEGS (make 2)
With dark brown yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 7 2: inc x 7 3: (sc, inc) x 7 4: (inc, sc 2) x 7 5: (sc 3, inc) x 7 6: bpsc in each st 7: sc 10, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 2, sc 11 8: sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 4 9: sc 8, dec, (sc 3, dec) x 2, sc 8 10: sc 5, dec, sc 11, dec, sc 5 |
(7) (14) (21) (28) (35) (35) (32) (28) |
| (25) (23) |
Stuff the hooves firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.
With gray yarn:
| 11: (sc 3, dec) x 4, sc 3 12: sc 9, dec, sc 8 13: dec, sc 16 14: sc 8, dec, sc 7 15: sc in each st 16: sc 8, dec, sc 6 17-18: sc in each st 19: sc 8, dec, sc 5 20-32: sc in each st |
(19) (18) (17) (16) (16) (15) (15) (14) (14) |
On the right leg only, sc in next 7 stitches. Count the
last stitch as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the joint between rows 31 and 32, placing it so
the stem is facing towards the body (see page 9).
33: sc 4, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3 (12)
34: sc 2, dec x 5 (7)
Finish stuffing the legs. Cut the yarn, leaving a long
yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining
stitches and close the opening (see page 7).
BODY
With gray yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 7: sc 3, inc, (sc 8, inc) x 3, sc 5 8: (sc 9, inc) x 4 9-16: sc in each st |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (36) (40) (44) (44) |
Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of the back. Attach the legs to the sides of the body,
between rounds 9 and 10 (see page 10).
| 17: (sc 9, dec) x 4 18: sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 3, sc 5 19: (sc 7, dec) x 4 20: sc in each st 21: sc 16, dec, sc 14 |
(40) (36) (32) (32) (31) |
Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.
| 22: dec, sc 29 23: sc 12, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 10 24: sc 7, dec, sc 12, dec, sc 5 25: (dec, sc 11) x 2 26: sc in each st 27: sc 9, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 7 28: sc in each st 29: sc 5, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 4 30-33: sc in each st |
(30) (28) (26) (24) (24) (22) (22) (20) (20) |
34: sc 5, leave rest of the sts unworked (20)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Attach the arms to the sides of the body, between
rounds 29 and 30 (see page 10). Finish stuffing.
TAIL
With gray yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 5 2-4: sc in each st |
(5) (5) |
Start stuffing the tail. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the tail lightly.
| 5: sc 2, inc, sc 2 6-7: sc in each st 8: sc 3, inc, sc 2 9-10: sc in each st 11: sc 4, inc, sc 2 12-13: sc in each st |
(6) (6) (7) (7) (8) (8) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the tail.
HEAD
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 17.
1. Place the eyes to either side of the stitch marker,
between rows 11 and 12, leaving 14 stitches (count
13 holes) between them.
2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of
the eyes before pushing the washer into place.
b) Finish the head and close the opening.
1. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread
the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.
2. Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn,
inserting the needle from the center and under the
front loop only and draw the yarn through.
3. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly
closed.
4. Insert the needle through the center and bring the
yarn to the bottom of the head. Fasten and hide the
yarn tail.
c) Use yarn to shape the head.
1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head,
between rounds 16 and 18, and bring it up right next
to the eye.
2. Go about half way around the eye and insert the
needle right next to the eye. Bring it to the bottom of
the head.
3. Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in
just a bit.
4. Knot the yarn tails together. Do the same with the
other eye.
d) Embroider the nostrils.
1. Embroider the nostrils, making a few stitches over
round 4 with dark brown embroidery floss.
2. Leave about 7 – 8 stitches between the two nostrils.
ARMS & LEGS
b) Place the disk with a stem or a button inside the arms and legs.
1. Place the disk inside the limb so the stem is facing
straight towards the body.
2. Finish the arms and legs and close the opening (see
page 7).
ASSEMBLING THE DONKEY
a) Sew the ears to the head.
1. Place the ears just behind round 18 of the head,
leaving 10 – 11 stitches between them.
2. Flatten the ears and sew them to the head in a
V-shape.
2. Start sewing the ear to the head. 3. When you reach the center, fold the ear in half and
sew the second half to the head, leaving about one
stitch length of space between the two sides at the front.
b) Finish the arms and legs. Start making the body and attach the limbs as you go.
1. Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of your donkey’s back. Attach the legs to the sides of the
body between rounds 9 and 10.
2. Finish the body. Attach the arms to the sides of the
body between rounds 29 and 30.
d) Sew the head to the body
1. Sew the head to the body with whip stitch (see p. 16),
placing it so the front edge is just behind round 14 of
the head.
2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.
e) Sew the tail to the body
1. Flatten the tail a bit and place it over round 9 of the
body.
2. Sew the tail to the body with whip or mattress stitch
(see page 16 – 18).
MANE & TAIL
a) Attach pieces of yarn to the head and back to form the mane and to the tip of the tail.
1. Cut pieces of yarn about 2 times longer than you
want the mane to be.
2. Start attaching the mane at round 18 and make it
about three stitches wide. Insert the hook under a
stitch. Fold a piece of yarn in half, grab the center and
draw up a loop.
3. Use your hook to draw both yarn tails through the
loop.
4. Grab the yarn tails and draw the loop tight. If you
need to, trim the yarn tails.
5. Keep attaching the mane to the head, going straight
around and down the back of the head and about six
rows down the back.
6. Attach longer yarn pieces to the tip of the tail the
same way.
Crochet Stitches
BACK POST SINGLE CROCHET STITCH
Instead of crocheting single crochet stitches around the loops on top of a stitch, crochet them around
the post (vertical bar), inserting the hook from the back and going over the stitch.
1. Insert the hook through the stitch from back to front,
on the right of the post, going under both loops.
2. Go over the post of the stitch and bring the hook to
the back of your work on the other side of the post.
3. So now you have the post of the stitch on the hook.
4. Yarn over…
5. … and draw up a loop. Yarn over…
6. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
Amigurumi Essentials
MAGIC RING
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.
1. Make a loop about 2 cm / 1”
from the yarn end so the working
yarn goes over the yarn tail.
2. Grab the join between your thumb
and forefinger and insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the
loop on the hook.
4. Pull the yarn tight. This does
not count as the first stitch.
5. Hold the loop between your thumb
and forefinger. Insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and
draw through both loops on the
hook, completing the first sc.
7. Continue crocheting through the
loop and over the yarn tail until you
have the required number of sc-s.
8. Hold the last stitch between your
fingers, grab the yarn and pull …
9. … until the center is tightly
closed.
CHANGING YARNS
A quick and easy, but clean way to change yarns when working in single crochet stitch.
1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet
stitch with the “old” yarn.
2. Tie the “new” yarn around the “old” yarn and push
the knot close to the piece.
3. Cut the “old“ yarn and knot the two yarn tails
together.
4. Yarn over with the new yarn.
5. And draw through both loops on the hook, completing
the single crochet stitch.
6. And then continue crocheting with the “new” yarn
INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE
Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops.
Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease.
1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single
crochet stitch.
2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second
stitch and pick it up onto the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.
Yarn over …
4. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE
1. Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next
stitch.
2. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
3. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back.
4. And draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use
the yarn tail for sewing, stop here.
5. Go through the next stitch, back to front.
6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it
inside the piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle
below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the stitch tight.
3. Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the
needle under both loops.
4. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn
up last time and bring it up under the next stitch.
Draw the stitch tight.
5. Or you can go through the stitch back to front,
inserting the needle under both loops.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up
last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the
stitch tight.
8. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 – 4 or 5 – 7 and go
all around the open piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH MATTRESS STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle.
Insert the needle below the yarn tail
and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the yarn through.
3. Insert the needle under the
vertical bar of the next stitch.
4. Draw the yarn through. 5. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and bring it up under the next stitch.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Keep repeating steps 3 – 6.
8. Make a couple of stitches. Then
grab the yarn tail and draw the
stitches as tight as you can.
9. Go around the open piece,
drawing the yarn tight after every
couple of stitches.
FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS
The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in
different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the
loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece.
1. Bring the yarn up through a hole
in the fabric.
2. Insert the needle under one
loop of a stitch right next to the
hole.
3. Pull until you have a small loop.
4. Knot the loop and yarn together,
making a double knot. Do not push
the first knot too close to the fabric.
5. Cut off the loop end.
6. Insert the needle into the same
hole, going up and through the
piece.
7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears
into the fabric.
8. Cut off the yarn close to the fabric.
9. Yarn tail will completely
disappear into the fabric.
