Deer Crochet Pattern By Kristi Tullus

Deer
Crochet pattern by Kristi Tullus

Size
27cm (10 2/3″) from head to toe, with DK weight alpaca wool and a 2,50mm hook.
Skills required
Crocheting in spiral, slip stitch, single crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing.
Difficulty
3. Intermediate – includes some less common crochet techniques and color changes.
Contact Info
Pattern includes unlimited support from me over email or Skype. Crochet photo and
video tutorials and helpful tips are available on my website.

Tip! You can use the same pattern to make larger or smaller toys by using finer or bulkier yarn. Make
sure to pick a crochet hook at least a size smaller than suggested on the yarn label and crochet tightly
enough to achieve a tight gauge that will not allow the stuffing to show through the fabric. You may
also need to adjust the size of the safety eyes, nose and joints.
Materials & Tools
• Yarn. I used DK weight alpaca yarn, 100 m=50g (109 yd=50 g) / 8 ply / 11 wpi / 3: light. You will need
about 95g of beige, 15g of brown and 10g of white yarn.
• 2,50 – 3,50mm crochet hook (US size 2/C – 4/E) or according to the yarn.
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding for stuffing.
• 12mm (1/2″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Two 20mm (3/4”) and two 15mm (3/5”) doll joints or safety eyes or buttons and thread.
• Embroidery floss.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
Choosing joints
Tip! You can use plastic doll joints, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread or even just thread to attach
the arms and legs. My favorite are plastic doll joints – they are easy to install, durable and washable.
Buttons and thread will work great as well, if you can’t get your hands on any joints.
Plastic doll joints

1. Plastic doll joints come in three
pieces – disk with a stem, washer
and a fastener.

2. Disk with a stem is placed inside
the limbs, pushing the stem through
the fabric.

3. And then locked to place inside
the body.

Button and thread joints
Tip! Make sure you use a very strong thread to attach the limbs – it will have to endure quite a bit of
tension and can be a bit difficult to mend, should it break. I have found cotton embroidery floss, nylon
sewing thread (doubled or tripled) or fishing line work really well.

1. Cut a length of yarn and draw it
through the holes in the button.

2. Place the button inside a limb,
drawing the yarn tails through the
fabric.

3. Place the other button inside the
body, draw the yarn tails through
the holes and knot them together.

Abbreviations
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = crochet n (number) single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop (see page 14).
• ch = chain stitch.
• sl st = slip stitch (single crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc (or sl st, ch, hdc etc.) n = make n single crochet stitches (or sl st, ch, hdc etc.), one in each stitch.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 15).
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
Notes
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the
pattern.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
• Make sure to crochet tightly enough to achieve a tight gauge that will not allow the stuffing to show
through the fabric.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the
marker up after completing each round.

Head
With beige yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2: inc x 6
3: (sc, inc) x 6
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6
5: (sc 7, inc) x 3
6: sc in each st
7: sc 3, inc, (sc 8, inc) x 2, sc 5
8: sc in each st
9: (sc 9, inc) x 3
10: sc in each st
11: sc 4, inc, (sc 10, inc) x 2, sc 6

(6)
(12)
(18)
(24)
(27)
(27)
(30)
(30)
(33)
(33)
(36)

On round 12 place a stitch marker in the 22nd stitch
to mark the center of the face.

12: sc 2, inc, (sc 5, inc) x 5, sc 3
13: (sc 6, inc) x 6
14: sc 19, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 20
15: sc 21, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 22
16: (sc 25, inc) x 2
17: sc 23, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 25

(42)
(48)
(50)
(52)
(54)
(56)

Attach safety eyes between rows 12 and 13, leaving
14 stitches (count 13 holes) between them (see page 7).
Add a bit of stuffing to the muzzle and embroider the
nose (see page 7 – 8).

18-25: sc in each st
26: sc 5, dec, (sc 12, dec) x 3, sc 7
27: (sc 11, dec) x 4
28: sc 4, dec, (sc 10, dec) x 3, sc 6

(56)
(52)
(48)
(44)

Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.

29: (sc 9, dec) x 4
30: sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 3, sc 5
31: (sc 7, dec) x 4
32: sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 3, sc 4
33: (sc 5, dec) x 4
34: (dec, sc 2) x 6
35: (sc, dec) x 6
36: dec x 6

(40)
(36)
(32)
(28)
(24)
(18)
(12)
(6)

Finish stuffing the head. Cut the yarn, leaving a long
yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining
stitches and close the opening (see page 8).

Ears (make 2)
With beige yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2: (inc, sc) x 3
3: (sc 2, inc) x 3
4: sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2
5: (sc 4, inc) x 3
6: sc 2, inc, (sc 5, inc) x 2, sc 3
7: (sc 6, inc) x 3
8: (sc 11, inc) x 2
9: sc 5, inc, sc 12, inc, sc 7
10-15: sc in each st
16: (dec, sc 12) x 2
17: (dec, sc 11) x 2
18: (dec, sc 4) x 4

(6)
(9)
(12)
(15)
(18)
(21)
(24)
(26)
(28)
(28)
(26)
(24)
(20)

Sl st in next. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for
sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears.
Antlers (make 2)
Make the three tines first and then join them as you
go (see page 9 – 10).
Tine 1
With white yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2-4: sc in each st
5: sc 3, inc, sc 2
6: sc in each st
7: sc 4, inc, sc 2
8: sc in each st
9: sc 4, leave rest of the sts unworked
Sl st in next stitch and fasten off. Stuff firmly.

(6)
(6)
(7)
(7)
(8)
(8)
(8)

Tine 2
With white yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2-3: sc in each st

(6)
(6)

4: sc 3, inc, sc 2
5: sc in each st
6: sc 4, inc, sc 2
7-8: sc in each st
9: sc 4, leave rest of the sts unworked
Sl st in next stitch and fasten off. Stuff firmly.

(7)
(7)
(8)
(8)
(8)

Tine 3
With white yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2-3: sc in each st
4: sc 3, inc, sc 2
5-6: sc in each st

(6)
(6)
(7)
(7)

Do not fasten off, leave the working yarn attached to
the third tine. Stuff firmly.
Antler
With white yarn:
1: continue around the third tine: sc, take (14)
the second tine and continue around it,
starting in the next stitch after the sl st:
sc 8, continue around the third tine,
starting in the next stitch: sc 2, dec, sc 2

2: dec, sc 6, dec, sc 4
3: (dec, sc 4) x 2
4: sc in each st

(12)
(10)
(10)

Start stuffing the antler. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the antler firmly.

5: sc 7, dec, sc 6-7: sc in each st 8: sc 4, take the first tine and continue around it, starting in the next stitch after the sl st: sc 8, continue around the antler, starting in the next stitch: sc 5 9: sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 4 10: sc, dec x 2, sc 3, dec x 2, sc 3 11-12: sc in each st 13: dec, sc 9	(9) (9) (17)
(15) (11) (11) (10)

14-18: sc in each st (10)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff firmly.
Arms (make 2)
With brown yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2: inc x 6
3: (sc, inc) x 6
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6

(6)
(12)
(18)
(24)

Crochet round 5 in back loops only.

5: sc in each st
6: sc 7, dec, (sc 2, dec) x 2, sc 7
7: sc 8, dec, sc, dec, sc 8
8: (sc 5, dec) x 2, sc 5
9: dec, sc 6, dec, sc 7

(24)
(21)
(19)
(17)
(15)

Stuff firmly. Make a long vertical stitch along the front
of the hoof and draw it tight (see page 10 – 11).
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds,
stuffing the arms firmly.
With beige yarn:

10: sc 7, dec, sc 6
11: sc in each st
12: sc 7, dec, sc 5
13-14: sc in each st
15: sc 7, dec, sc 4
16-17: sc in each st
18: sc 7, dec, sc 3
19-30: sc in each st

(14)
(14)
(13)
(13)
(12)
(12)
(11)
(11)

On the left arm only, sc in next 6 stitches. Count the
last stitch as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the joint between rows 29 and 30, placing it so
the stem is facing straight towards the body (see
page 11).
31: sc, dec x 5 (6)
Finish stuffing the arms. Cut the yarn, leaving a long
yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining
stitches and close the opening (see page 8).

Legs (make 2)
With brown yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2: inc x 6
3: (sc, inc) x 6
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6
5: (sc 3, inc) x 6

(6)
(12)
(18)
(24)
(30)

Crochet round 6 in back loops only.

6: sc in each st
7: sc 8, dec, (sc 2, dec) x 3, sc 8
8: sc 9, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 9
9: sc 5, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 5
10: dec, sc 8, dec, sc 9

(30)
(26)
(23)
(21)
(19)

Stuff firmly. Make a long vertical stitch along the front
of the hoof and draw it tight (see page 10 – 11).
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds,
stuffing the legs firmly.
With beige yarn:

11: sc 6, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 6
12: sc 8, dec, sc 7
13: sc in each st
14: sc 8, dec, sc 6
15-16: sc in each st
17: sc 8, dec, sc 5
18-32: sc in each st

(17)
(16)
(16)
(15)
(15)
(14)
(14)

On the left leg only, sc in next 7 stitches. Count the
last stitch as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the joint between rows 31 and 32, placing it so
the stem is facing towards the body (see page 11).

33: sc 2, dec, sc 7, dec, sc
34: dec x 6

(12)
(6)

Finish stuffing the legs. Cut the yarn, leaving a long
yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining
stitches and close the opening (see page 8).
Body
With beige yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2: inc x 6

(6)
(12)

3: (sc, inc) x 6
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6
5: (sc 3, inc) x 6
6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3
7: sc 3, inc, (sc 8, inc) x 3, sc 5
8: (sc 9, inc) x 4
9-16: sc in each st

(18)
(24)
(30)
(36)
(40)
(44)
(44)

Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of the back. Attach the legs to the sides of the body,
between rounds 9 and 10 (see page 12).

17: (sc 9, dec) x 4
18: sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 3, sc 5
19: (sc 7, dec) x 4
20: sc in each st
21: (dec, sc 14) x 2

(40)
(36)
(32)
(32)
(30)

Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.

22: sc in each st
23: sc 12, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 10
24: sc in each st
25: (dec, sc 5) x 4
26: sc in each st
27: sc 9, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 7
28: sc in each st
29: sc 5, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 4
30-33: sc in each st

(30)
(28)
(28)
(24)
(24)
(22)
(22)
(20)
(20)

34: sc 5, leave rest of the sts unworked (20)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Attach the arms to the sides of the body, between
rounds 29 and 30 (see page 12). Finish stuffing.
Tail
With beige yarn:

1: mr, sc 6
2: (sc 2, inc) x 2
3: sc, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2
4: sc in each st
5: (dec, sc 3) x 2

(6)
(8)
(10)
(10)
(8)

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the tail.

Head
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 17.

1. Place the eyes to either side of the stitch marker,
between rows 12 and 13, leaving 14 stitches (count
13 holes) between them.

2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of
the eyes before pushing the washer into place.

b) Embroider the nose.

1. Add a bit of stuffing to the muzzle. Insert the needle
from inside the head and bring it up just above the
first round.

2. Make a few stitches to mark the shape and size of
the nose.

3. Just keep stitching, trying to keep even tension …

4. … and fill in all the gaps.

5. Make a long stitch across the top of the nose to hide
any imperfections.

6. Knot the yarn ends together inside the head.

c) Finish the head and close the opening.

1. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread
the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.

2. Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn,
inserting the needle from the center and under the
front loop only and draw the yarn through.

3. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly
closed.

4. Insert the needle through the center and bring the
yarn to the side of the head. Fasten and hide the yarn
tail.

d) Use yarn to shape the head.

1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head,
between rounds 16 and 18, and bring it up right next
to the eye.

2. Go about half way around the eye and insert the
needle right next to the eye. Bring it to the bottom of
the head.

3. Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in
just a bit.

4. Knot the yarn tails together. Do the same with the
other eye.

Antlers
a) Make the three tines first and then join them as you go.

1. Take the third tine and continue around it, crocheting
one sc in next stitch.

2. Take the second tine and continue around it,
starting in the next stitch after the slip stitch.

3. Go around the second tine, crocheting one sc in each
stitch.

4. Continue around the third tine, starting in the next
stitch.

5. Go around the third tine: sc 2, dec, sc 2. Continue
crocheting in spiral.

6. Join the first tine the same way.

Arms & Legs
a) Make a long stitch along the front of the hoofs.

1. Finish the hoof and stuff it firmly. Insert the needle
from the top, leaving a short yarn tail, and bring it up
between the last two rounds.

2. Go straight down and insert the needle just above
the first round.

3. Come back out through the opening. Grab the yarn
tails and draw the stitch very tight.

4. Knot the yarn ends together.

b) Place the disk with a stem or a button inside the arms and legs.

1. Place the disk inside the limb so the stem is facing
straight towards the body.

2. Finish the arms and legs and close the opening (see
page 8).

Assembling the deer
a) Sew the ears to the head.
Tip! Sew the ears and antlers to the head before you sew the head to the body – this way you can
fasten all yarn tails securely with a knot under the head.

1. Place the ears just behind round 21 of the head,
leaving 21 – 22 stitches between them.

2. Flatten the ear and start sewing it to the head.

3. When you reach the center, fold the ear in half.

4. And sew the second side right next to the first.

b) Sew the antlers to the head.

1. Place the antlers just behind round 21 of the head,
leaving 10 – 11 stitches between them.

2. Sew the antlers to the head (see page 16).

c) Finish the arms and legs. Start making the body and attach the limbs as you go.

1. Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center
of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body
between rounds 9 and 10.

2. Finish the body. Attach the arms to either side of the
body between rounds 29 and 30.

d) Sew the head to the body.

1. Sew the head to the body (see page 16), placing it so
the front edge is just behind round 15 of the head.

2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.

e) Sew the tail to the body.

1. Flatten the tail and place it over the 8th round of the
body.

2. Sew the tail to the body.

Amigurumi Essentials
Magic Ring
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round in to an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.

1. Make a loop an inch from the
yarn end. Grab the join with
your thumb and forefinger.

2. Insert the hook through the
loop from front to back, yarn over
and draw up a loop.

3. Yarn over and draw through
the loop.

4. Pull the yarn tight. This does
not count as the first single
crochet stitch.

5. Start the first sc. Insert the
hook through the starting loop
from front to back.

6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and
draw through both loops.

7. Continue crocheting over the
loop and the yarn tail until you
have the required number of sc-s
for the first round, usually six.

8. Grab hold of the yarn tail and
pull until the center is tightly
closed.

Invisible decrease
Tip! Alternatively, you can use the regular single crochet decrease – insert the hook through the first
stitch and draw up a loop, insert the hook through the second stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over
and draw through all loops on the hook.

1. Insert the hook under the front
loop of the first single crochet stitch.
Do not yarn over.

2. Insert the hook under the front
loop of the second stitch and pick
it up onto the hook.

3. Yarn over and draw through
the first two loops. Yarn over and
draw through all loops.

Changing yarn

1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet stitch
with the “old” yarn.

2. Tie the “new” yarn around the “old” yarn and push
the knot close to the piece. Cut the “old“ yarn and tie
the yarn tails together

4. Pick up the “new” yarn and draw through both
loops. Continue crocheting with the “new” yarn.

5. There will be a jolt where the yarn is changed and
the stripes will not line up.

Finishing an open piece

1. Crochet a slip stitch in next stitch.

2. Cut the yarn. Pull on the loop until the yarn tail
comes through the stitch.

3. Insert the hook through the next stitch from front to
back and draw the yarn tail through.

4. Insert the hook through the next stitch from back to
front and draw the yarn tail through.

Sewing an open piece to a closed piece with whip stitch

1. Bring the needle up through the
fabric under a stitch of the open
piece. Go down through both loops
of the stitch and into the same hole.

2. Bring the needle back up directly
under the next stitch.

3. Draw the yarn tight after every
stitch. Make sure your stitches are
parallel to one another.

Fastening with a knot and hiding the yarn tail
This tutorial will show how to knot the yarn tail and hide it inside a piece. This method can be used
when the yarn tail and the main piece are the same color.

1. Bring the yarn up through the
fabric after you have finished
sewing.

2. Insert the needle under one
loop of a stitch right next to the
hole.

3. Pull until you have a small loop.