27.5 cm (11″) from head to toe, 34.5 cm (13 1/3”) including ears, when crocheted with sport weight cotton and acrylic blend and a 2,50 mm hook.
SkiLLs Required
Crocheting in spiral, slip stitch and single crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing.
DifficuLty
3. Intermediate – includes some less common crochet techniques and simple shaping.
MateriaLs & TooLs
• Yarn. I used Scheepjes ‘Stone Washed’, a sport weight cotton and acrylic blend (50 g = 100 m / 109 yd). You will need about 80 g of yarn for each bunny.
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding for stuffing.
• 9 mm (3/8″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Two 20 mm (4/5”) and two 15 mm (3/5”) doll joints or safety eyes or buttons and thread.
• Embroidery floss.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
Choosing joints
Tip! You can use plastic doll joints, safety eyes, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread or even just thread to attach the arms and legs. My favorite are plastic doll joints – they are easy to install, durable and washable. Buttons and thread will work great as well, if you can’t get your hands on any joints.
Plastic doLL joints
1.Plastic doll joints come in three pieces – disk with a post, washer and a fastener.
2.Disk with a post is placed inside the limbs, pushing the post through the fabric.
3.And then locked in place inside the body.
Button and thread joints
Tip! Make sure you use very strong thread to attach the limbs – it will have to endure quite a bit of tension and can be a bit difficult to mend, should it break. I have found cotton embroidery floss, nylon sewing thread (doubled or tripled) or fishing line work really well.
1.Cut a length of yarn and draw it through the holes in the button.
2.Place the button inside a limb, drawing the yarn tails through the fabric.
3.Place the other button inside the body, draw the yarn tails through the holes and knot them together.
Abbreviations
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• mr, sc n = crochet n (number) single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop (see page 16).
• ch = chain stitch.
• sl st = slip stitch (single crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• sc (or sl st, ch etc.) n = crochet n single crochet stitches (or sl st, ch etc.), one in each stitch.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method (see page 17).
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
Notes
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
• Make sure to crochet tightly enough to achieve a tight gauge that will not allow the stuffing to show through the fabric.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the marker up after completing each round.
On round 11 place a stitch marker between stitches
20 and 21 (around the loops of the 21st stitch) to mark the center of the face. Use it as a guide when placing the eyes (see page 7).
11: sc in each st (42)
12: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 (48)
13: (sc 7, inc) x 6 (54)
14: sc 23, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 25 (56)
Attach the eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rounds 11 and 12, leaving 16 stitches (count 15 holes) between them.
15-21: sc in each st (56)
22: (sc 12, dec) x 4 (52)
23: sc 5, dec, (sc 11, dec) x 3, sc 6 (48)
24: (sc 10, dec) x 4 (44)
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
25: sc 4, dec, (sc 9, dec) x 3, sc 5 (40)
26: (sc 8, dec) x 4 (36)
27: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 (30)
28: (sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)
29: (dec, sc 2) x 6 (18)
30: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
31: dec x 6 (6)
Finish stuffing the head. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Thread the tail onto a needle and use it to pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 7).
Use yarn to shape the head (see page 8). Embroider the nose (see page 9).
Straight ears (make 2)
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: (inc, sc) x 3 (9)
3: (sc 2, inc) x 3 (12)
4: sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 (15)
5: (sc 4, inc) x 3 (18)
6: sc 2, inc, (sc 5, inc) x 2, sc 3 (21)
7: (sc 6, inc) x 3 (24)
8-11: sc in each st (24)
12: (dec, sc 10) x 2 (22)
13-14: sc in each st (22)
15: (dec, sc 9) x 2 (20)
16-20: sc in each st (20)
Sl st in next st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears.
FLoPPy ears (make 2)
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: inc x 6 (12)
3: (sc 2, inc) x 4 (16)
4: sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 3, sc 2 (20)
5: (sc 4, inc) x 4 (24)
6: sc 2, inc, (sc 5, inc) x 3, sc 3 (28)
7: (sc 6, inc) x 4 (32)
8-12: sc in each st (32)
13: (dec, sc 14) x 2 (30)
14: sc in each st (30)
15: (dec, sc 13) x 2 (28)
16: sc in each st (28)
17: (dec, sc 12) x 2 (26)
18: sc in each st (26)
19: (dec, sc 11) x 2 (24)
20: sc in each st (24)
21: (dec, sc 10) x 2 (22)
22: sc in each st (22)
23: (dec, sc 9) x 2 (20)
24: sc in each st (20)
25: (dec, sc 8) x 2 (18)
26: sc in each st (18)
27: (dec, sc 7) x 2 (16)
28: sc in each st (16)
29: (dec, sc 6) x 2 (14)
Sc in next stitch. Flatten the ear and sc through both layers, going across the whole opening (see page 9).
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears.
Left arm
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 (14)
3: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 (16)
4-5: sc in each st (16)
6: sc 4, inc, sc 6, dec x 2, sc (15)
7: sc 5, inc, sc 6, dec, sc (15)
Sc in next five stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.
8: sc 7, dec x 2, sc 4 (13)
9: sc 7, dec, sc 4 (12)
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
10-11: sc in each st (12)
12 sc 7, dec, sc 3 (11)
13-22: sc in each st (11)
Attach the smaller joint between rounds 21 and 22, placing it so the post is facing straight towards the body (see page 11).
23: sc, dec x 5 (6)
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Thread the tail onto a needle and use it to pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 7).
Right arm
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 (14)
3: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 (16)
4-5: sc in each st (16)
6: sc 2, dec x 2, sc 6, inc, sc 3 (15)
7: sc 2, dec, sc 6, inc, sc 4 (15)
8: sc, dec x 2, sc 10 (13)
9: sc, dec, sc 10 (12)
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.
10-11: sc in each st (12)
12: sc, dec, sc 9 (11)
13-22: sc in each st (11)
Attach the smaller joint between rounds 21 and 22, placing it so the post is facing straight towards the body (see page 11).
23: sc, dec x 5 (6)
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Thread the tail onto a needle and use it to pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 7).
Legs (make 2)
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: inc x 6 (12)
3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)
5-8: sc in each st (24)
9: (sc 4, dec) x 4 (20)
10: sc 6, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 7 (18)
11: sc 8, dec, sc 8 (17)
12-14: sc in each st (17)
Stuff the feet firmly.
15: sc 7, leave the rest of the sts unworked for now, turn
16: ch, skip first two sts, sc 10, turn (10)
17: ch, skip first two sts, sc 8, turn (8)
18: ch, skip first two sts, sc 6, turn (6) 19: ch, skip first two sts, sc, sc2tog, sc (3) 20: pick up 16 sts, working down the side of (16)
the short rounds (4 sts), across the skipped stitches (5 sts), up the other side of short rounds (4 sts) and across the top (3 sts) with single crochet stitches (see page 10).
Move the stitch marker to the last stitch and count it as the end of the round from now on. Continue working is spiral.
21: sc 13, dec, sc (15)
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rows, stuffing the legs firmly.
22: sc 6, dec, sc 7 (14)
23: sc in each st (14)
24: sc 12, dec (13)
25-32: sc in each st (13)
On the left leg only, sc in next seven stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.
Attach the larger joint between rounds 31 and 32, placing it so the post is facing straight towards the body (see page 11).
33: dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3 (11)
34: sc, dec x 5 (6)
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Thread the tail onto a needle and use it to pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 7).
Use embroidery floss to shape the feet (see page 11).
Body
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: inc x 6 (12)
3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)
5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)
6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)
7: (sc 8, inc) x 4 (40)
8: sc 4, inc, (sc 9, inc) x 3, sc 5 (44)
9-14: sc in each st (44)
Turn the body so the last stitch of round 14 is facing away from you (center of the back). Attach the legs to either side of the body, between rows 8 and 9 (see page 13).
Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.
15: sc 9, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 3, sc 9 (40)
16: sc 12, dec, (sc 5, dec) x 2, sc 12 (37)
17: sc 4, dec, sc 25, dec, sc 4 (35)
18: sc 15, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 14 (33)
19: sc in each st (33)
20: (dec, sc 9) x 3 (30)
21: sc in each st (30)
22: sc 4, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 2, sc 4 (27)
23: sc in each st (27)
24: (dec, sc 7) x 3 (24)
25: sc in each st (24)
26: sc 3, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 2, sc 3 (21)
27: sc in each st (21)
28: sc 10, dec, sc 9 (20)
29:: sc 6, leave rest of the sts unworked (20)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Attach the arms to the sides of the body, between rounds 24 and 25 (see page 13). Finish stuffing the body.
TaiL
1: mr, sc 6 (6)
2: inc x 6 (12)
3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)
5-6: sc in each st (24)
7: (dec, sc 2) x 6 (18)
8: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the tail firmly.
Head
a ) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 14.
1.Place the eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rounds 11 and 12 leaving 16 stitches (count 15 holes) between them.
2.Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of the eyes before pushing the washer into place.
b ) Finish the head and close the opening.
1.Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.
2.Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn, inserting the needle from the center and under the front loop only and draw the yarn through.
3.Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly closed.
4.Insert the needle through the center and bring the yarn to the bottom of the head.
c ) Use yarn to shape the head.
1.Insert the needle from the bottom of the head, between rounds 14 and 15, and bring it up right next to the eye.
2.Insert the needle on the other side of the eye and go through the head towards the other eye.
2. Bring the needle up right next to the other eye.
4. Insert the needle on the other side of the eye and
come back out at the bottom of the head.
5.Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eyes in just a bit.
6.Knot the yarn tails together under the head.
d ) Embroider the nose.
1.Insert the needle from the bottom of the head and bring it up just above round 3. Go straight down and insert the needle on the other side of round 3.
2.Bring the needle back up two rows above the first stitch, at an angle
3.Go under the long vertical stitch and draw the yarn through.
4.Insert your needle on the other side of the vertical stitch, mirroring the other side. Come back out to the bottom of the head and knot the yarn ends together.
FLoppy Ears
a ) Close the opening by crocheting over it with single crochet stitches.
1.Push the top flat and insert the crochet hook through both layers, skipping the last stitch.
2.Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook, completing a single crochet stitch.
3.Continue across the whole ear, inserting the hook through both layers.
4.Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and fasten off.
Arms & Legs
a ) Crochet rows 15 – 19 of the legs back and forth, turning after completing each row. And then pick up 16 stitches, crocheting around the opening.
1.Start row 15 with sc 7, leaving the rest of the stitches unworked.
2.Turn and chain one. Skip the first two stitches and start row 16 in the third stitch.
3.Crochet one sc in next 10 stitches. Leave the last five stitches unworked.
4.Continue crocheting back and forth, turning after completing each row.
5.Pick up 16 stitches working single crochet stitches into the ends of the short rows (4 sts) …
6.… across the stitches we skipped earlier (5 sts), up the other side of the short rows (4 sts) and back across the top (3 sts).
b ) Place the disk with a post or a button inside the arms and legs.
1.Place the disk inside the limb so the post is facing straight towards the body.
2.Finish the arms and legs and close the opening (see page 7).
c ) Use embroidery floss to shape the feet.
1.Mark the center of the foot with a sewing pin, placing it just above
round 8. Do the same at the bottom.
2.Cut about 75 cm (2 ½ ft) of embroidery floss and thread it onto a needle. Insert the needle about
1 ½ stitch lengths to the right of the pin.
3.Go through the foot and bring it back up about 1 ½ stitches to the right of the pin at the bottom. Draw the yarn through, leaving a short tail.
4.Go around and insert your needle from the top, where you made the first stitch.
5.Go through the foot and come back out to the bottom at the center, where your marker is.
6.Draw the stitch very tight. Do the same with all stitches.
7.Go around and insert your needle from the top at the center.
8.Go through the foot and come back out to the bottom on the other side of the center stitch.
9.Go around and insert your needle from the top on the other side of the center stitch.
10.Go through the foot and come back out to the bottom where your first stitch is.
11.Go straight across and insert the needle where the last stitch is.
12.Go through the foot and come back out to where the first stitch is.
13.Go straight across and insert the needle where the last stitch is.
14.Go through the foot and come back out to the bottom where your first stitch is.
15 . Repeat the stitch at the bottom once more.
16.Go through the foot and come back out to where the first stitch is.
17.Knot the yarn ends together. Thread both yarn tails onto a needle and go back into the same hole.
18 . Go through the foot. Grab the yarn tails and pull gently until the knot disappears into the fabric.
Body
a ) Finish the arms and legs. Start making the body and attach the limbs as you go.
1.Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to the sides of the body between rounds 9 and 10.
2.Finish the body. Attach the arms to the sides of the body between rounds 24 and 25.
Assembling the Bunny
a ) Sew the head to the body.
1.Sew the head to the body with whip stitch (see page 18), placing it so the front edge is just behind round 11 of the head.
2.Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.
b ) Sew the ears to the head.
STRAIGHT EARS
1. Flatten the ears and fold them in half lengthwise.
2. Place the ears just behind round 17 of the head,
leaving 9 stitches between them.
3. Start sewing the ear to the head.
4. When you reach the center, fold the ear in half and sew the second side right next to the first one.
FLOPPY EARS
1.Place the ears just behind round 16, slightly higher than the eyes.
2.Sew the ears to the head.
c ) Sew the tail to the body.
1. Place the tail just above round 7.
2. Sew the tail to the body with whip or mattress stitch (see page 18 – 20), I prefer the latter.
MAGIC RING
Amigurumi EssentiaLs
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into the second chain from hook.
1.Make a loop about 2 cm / 1” from the yarn end so the working yarn goes over the yarn tail.
2.Grab the join between your thumb and forefinger and insert the hook through the loop from front to back.
3.Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook.
4.Pull the yarn tight. This does not count as the first stitch.
5.Hold the loop between your thumb and forefinger. Insert the hook through the loop from front to back.
6.Draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook, completing the first sc.
7.Continue crocheting through the loop and over the yarn tail until you have the required number of sc-s.
8.Hold the last stitch between your fingers, grab the yarn and pull …
9until the center is tightly closed.
INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE
Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops. Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease.
1.Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single crochet stitch.
2.Insert the hook under the front loop of the second stitch and pick it up onto the hook.
3.Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. Yarn over …
4.… and draw through both loops on the hook, completing the single crochet stitch.
FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE
1.Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next stitch.
2.Cut the yarn and fasten off.
3.Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back.
4. And draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use the yarn tail for sewing, stop here.
5. Go through the next stitch, back to front.
6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it inside the piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1.Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2.Draw the stitch tight.
3.Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the needle under both loops.
4.Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the stitch tight.
5.Or you can go through the stitch back to front, inserting the needle under both loops.
6.Draw the yarn through.
7.Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the stitch tight.
8.Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 – 4 or 5 – 7 and go all around the open piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH MATTRESS STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1.Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2.Draw the yarn through.
3. Insert the needle under the vertical bar of the next stitch.
4.Draw the yarn through.
5.Go back in the same hole where you brought the yarn up last time and bring it up under the next stitch.
6.Draw the yarn through.
7.Keep repeating steps 3 – 6.
8. Make a couple of stitches. Then grab the yarn tail and draw the stitches as tight as you can.
9.Go around the open piece, drawing the yarn tight after every couple of stitches.
FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS
The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece.
1.Bring the yarn up through a hole in the fabric.
2.Insert the needle under one loop of a stitch right next to the hole.
3.Pull until you have a small loop.
4.Knot the loop and yarn together, making a double knot. Do not push the first knot too close to the fabric.
5.Cut off the loop end.
6. Insert the needle into the same hole, going up and through the piece.
7.Pull lightly until the knot disappears into the fabric.
8.Cut off the yarn close to the fabric.
9. Yarn tail will completely disappear into the fabric.
