Bobble Sheep
CROCHET PATTERN BY KRISTI TULLUS
SIZE
30cm (12″) from head to toe, when crocheted with DK
weight alpaca yarn and a 2,50mm crochet hook.
SKILLS REQUIRED
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rounds, chain, slip, single
and double crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing.
DIFFICULTY
3. Intermediate – includes more complicated crochet
techniques and simple shaping.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
• Yarn. I used DK weight alpaca wool, 100m=50g (109yd=50g) / 8 ply / 11 wpi. You will need about
90g of white and 40g of gray yarn.
• 2,50 – 3,00mm crochet hook (US size 1/B – 3/D) or according to the yarn.
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding for stuffing.
• 12 mm (1/2″) safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Cotton embroidery floss in black and pink.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
ABBREVIATIONS
• mr, sc n = magic ring – crochet n single crochet stitches into the adjustable loop (see page 12).
• sl st = slip stitch (single crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• ch = chain stitch.
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia).
• bo = bobble stitch – crochet 5 double crochet stitches together in the same stitch (see page 11).
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = crochet two single crochet stitches together using the invisible decrease (see page 13).
• sc2tog = crochet two single crochet stitches together using the regular method.
• sc (or sl st, ch etc.) n = crochet n single crochet stitches (or sl st, ch etc.), one in each stitch.
• sc + bo = crochet all stitches in the same stitch.
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (36) = number of stitches in a round after finishing the round.
NOTES
• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the
pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round.
• Work all stitches in both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
COPYRIGHT INFO
Copyright © 2014 Kristi Tullus, TÜ Spire. All rights reserved. Contents of this document may not be
copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed in any way. Feel free to sell finished products
made with this pattern, I would appreciate a credit as the designer (Kristi Tullus, kristitullus.com).
HEAD
The fleece is crocheted in rounds, starting each round
with a ch and joining each round with a sl st through
the first stitch. Do not count them as stitches.
Start each round in the first stitch, the same one you
slip stitched into earlier.
With white yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 10, sl st in 1st sc 2: ch, (sc, bo+sc) x 5, sl st in 1st sc 3: ch, (sc 2, inc) x 5, sl st in 1st sc 4: ch, (sc, bo+sc) x 10, sl st in 1st sc 5: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 6: ch, (bo+sc, sc) x 15, sl st in 1st bo 7: ch, (sc 4, inc) x 9, sl st in 1st sc 8: ch, (sc 2, bo) x 18, sl st in 1st sc 9: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 10: ch, sc, bo, (sc 2, bo) x 17, sc, sl st in 1st sc 11: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 12: ch, (bo, sc 2) x 18, sl st in 1st bo 13: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 14: ch, (sc 2, bo) x 18, sl st in 1st sc 15: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 16: ch, sc, bo, (sc 2, bo) x 17, sc, sl st in 1st sc 17: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 18: ch, (bo, sc 2) x 18, sl st in 1st bo 19: ch, (sc 4, sc2tog) x 9, sl st in 1st sc 20: ch, (sc 2, bo) x 15, sl st in 1st sc |
(10) (15) (20) (30) (30) (45) (54) (54) (54) (54) (54) (54) (54) (54) (54) (54) (54) (54) (45) (45) |
Fasten off. Attach the gray yarn with a slip stitch in
the first stitch and continue crocheting in spiral.
With gray yarn:
| 21: sl st (counts as first stitch), sc 13, sc2tog, (sc 2, sc2tog) x 4, sc 13 22: sc in each stitch 23: (sc 6, dec) x 5 24-25: sc in each stitch 26: sc 2, dec, (sc 5, dec) x 4, sc 3 |
(40) |
| (40) (35) (35) (30) |
27: sc in each stitch (30)
Attach safety eyes between rounds 24 and 25, leaving
14 stitches (count 13 holes) between them (see page 5).
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill
after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
| 28: (sc 4, dec) x 5 29: sc in each stitch 30: sc, dec, (sc 3, dec) x 4, sc 2 31: (dec, sc 8) x 2 32: (sc, dec) x 6 33: dec x 6 |
(25) (25) (20) (18) (12) (6) |
Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail,
fasten off and close the opening (see page 5).
EARS (make 2)
With gray yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: (inc, sc) x 3 3: (sc 2, inc) x 3 4: sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 5: (sc 4, inc) x 3 6: sc 2, inc, (sc 5, inc) x 2, sc 3 7-12: sc in each stitch 13: dec, sc 9, dec, sc 8 14: sc in each stitch 15: sc 14, dec, sc 3 16: dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 |
(6) (9) (12) (15) (18) (21) (21) (19) (19) (18) (16) |
Fold the ear in half and crochet over the top with
single crochet stitches (see page 8). Cut the yarn,
leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.
BODY
The fleece is crocheted in rounds, starting each round
with a ch and joining each round with a sl st through
the first stitch. Do not count them as stitches.
Start each round in the first stitch, the same one you
slip stitched into earlier.
With white yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 10, sl st in 1st sc 2: ch, (sc, bo+sc) x 5, sl st in 1st sc 3: ch, (sc 2, inc) x 5, sl st in 1st sc 4: ch, (sc, bo+sc) x 10, sl st in 1st sc 5: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 6: ch, (bo+sc, sc) x 15, sl st in 1st bo 7: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 8: ch, (sc 2, bo) x 15, sl st in 1st sc 9: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 10: ch, sc, bo, (sc 2, bo) x 14, sc, sl st in 1st sc 11: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 12: ch, (bo, sc 2) x 15, sl st in 1st bo 13: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 14: ch, (sc 2, bo) x 15, sl st in 1st sc 15: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 16: ch, sc, bo, (sc 2, bo) x 14, sc, sl st in 1st sc 17: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc 18: ch, (bo, sc 2) x 15, sl st in 1st bo 19: ch, (sc 13, sc2tog) x 3, sl st in 1st sc 20: ch, (sc 2, bo) x 14, sl st in 1st sc 21: ch, sc 4, sc2tog, (sc 2, sc2tog) x 8, sc 4, sl st in 1st sc 22: ch, sc, bo, (sc 2, bo) x 10, sc, sl st in 1st sc 23: ch, (sc 3, sc2tog) x 6, sc 3, sl st in 1st sc 24: ch, (bo, sc 2) x 9, sl st in 1st bo 25: ch, sc in each stitch, sl st in 1st sc |
(10) (15) (20) (30) (30) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (45) (42) (42) (33) |
| (33) (27) (27) (27) |
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and
fasten off. Stuff the body firmly.
ARMS (make 2)
With gray yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: sc 8, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 8 6: sc in each stitch 7: sc 10, dec, sc 9 8: sc 7, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 6 9: (dec, sc 7) x 2 10: sc 7, dec, sc 7 |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (21) (21) (20) (18) (16) (15) |
Stuff the hands firmly. Make a long vertical stitch
along the front of the hoof, draw it very tight and knot
the yarn ends together (see page 7 – 8).
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds,
stuffing the arms lightly about 2/3 way up.
| 11: sc 4, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 4 12-14: sc in each stitch 15: sc 6, dec, sc 5 16-18: sc in each stitch 19: sc 6, dec, sc 4 20-28: sc in each stitch 29: sc 9, dec |
(13) (13) (12) (12) (11) (11) (10) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off.
LEGS (make 2)
With gray yarn:
| 1: mr, sc 6 2: inc x 6 3: (sc, inc) x 6 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 6: sc 10, dec, (sc 2, dec) x 2, sc 10 7: sc 11, dec, sc, dec, sc 11 8: (sc 7, dec) x 2, sc 7 9: dec, sc 9, dec, sc 10 10: sc 9, dec, sc 10 11: (sc 5, dec) x 2, sc 6 12: sc 8, dec, sc 8 |
(6) (12) (18) (24) (30) (27) (25) (23) (21) (20) (18) (17) |
Stuff the feet firmly. Make a long vertical stitch along
the front of the hoof, draw it very tight and knot the
yarn ends together (see page 7 – 8).
Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rows,
stuffing the legs lightly.
| 13: sc 7, dec, sc 8 14-15: sc in each stitch 16: sc 7, dec, sc 7 17-19: sc in each stitch 20: sc 7, dec, sc 6 21-31: sc in each stitch 32: (sc, dec) x 4, sc 2 |
(16) (16) (15) (15) (14) (14) (10) |
Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing.
HEAD
a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 27.
1. Place the eyes between rows 24 and 25 leaving
14 stitches (count 13 holes) between them.
2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of
the eyes before pushing the washer into place.
b) Finish the head, stuff it firmly and close the opening.
1. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread
the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.
2. Insert the needle from the center and under the
front loop only. Draw the yarn through. Pick up all the
remaining stitches.
3. Grab the yarn and pull until the hole is tightly closed.
4. Insert the needle into the center and bring the yarn
to the bottom of the head.
c) Use yarn to shape the head.
1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head and
bring it up right next to the eye.
2. Go about half way around the eye and insert the
needle right next to the eye. Bring it to the bottom of
the head.
3. Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in
just a bit.
4. Knot the yarn tails together. Do the same with the
other eye.
d) Embroider the nose.
1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head and
bring it up just above the last round. Make a vertical
stitch and bring the needle up where the nose starts.
2. Go under the vertical stitch.
3. Insert the needle where the nose ends and bring it
up where the mouth begins.
4. Go under the vertical stitch.
5. Insert the needle where the mouth ends and bring it
to the bottom of the head.
6. And done! Knot the yarn ends together under the
head.
ARMS & LEGS
a) Finish the hooves, stuff firmly and make a stitch along the front.
1. Finish the hoof and stuff it firmly. Insert the needle
from the top, leaving a short tail.
2. Go straight down and insert the needle just above
the first round.
3. Bring the yarn back up. Grab the yarn tails and draw
the stitch very tight.
4. Knot the yarn tails together.
EARS
a) Finish the ears, fold them in half and crochet over the top with single crochet stitches.
1. Fold the ear in half. Insert the hook through all four
stitches.
2. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw
through all loops.
3. Crochet over the whole opening.
4. Cut the yarn, leaving a yarn tail for sewing, and
fasten off.
ASSEMBLING THE SHEEP
a) Sew the head to the body.
1. Sew the head to the body with whip stitch (see p. 14),
placing it so the front edge of the body is just behind
the last row of bobbles.
2. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.
b) Sew the arms and legs to the body and ears to the head.
Tip! Use sewing pins to attach all the pieces to the head and body before sewing to find the right
placement and get a symmetrical result.
1. Place the arms to the sides of the body, just below the
last round of bobbles.
2. Push the top of the arms flat and sew them to the
body, inserting the needle through both layers.
3. Place the legs over the third round of bobbles, leaving
4 – 5 bobbles between them.
4. Sew the legs to the body, placing the opening over a
bobble (see page 14).
5. Place the ears to the sides of the head just behind the
second to last round of bobbles.
6. Sew the ears to the head.
Crochet stitches
BOBBLE STITCH
Crochet 5 double crochet stitches together in the same stitch.
1. Yarn over once.
2. Insert the hook through the stitch.
3. Yarn over and draw up a loop.
4. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on
the hook.
5. Repeat steps 1 – 4 in the same stitch four more times
until you have five half finished double crochet stitches
on the hook.
6. Yarn over and draw through all six loops on the
hook. Use your finger to push the bobble to the front of
your work.
Amigurumi Essentials
MAGIC RING
A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable
loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into
the second chain from hook.
1. Make a loop about 2 cm / 1”
from the yarn end so the working
yarn goes over the yarn tail.
2. Grab the join between your thumb
and forefinger and insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the
loop on the hook.
4. Pull the yarn tight. This does
not count as the first stitch.
5. Hold the loop between your thumb
and forefinger. Insert the hook
through the loop from front to back.
6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and
draw through both loops on the
hook, completing the first sc.
7. Continue crocheting through the
loop and over the yarn tail until you
have the required number of sc-s.
8. Hold the last stitch between your
fingers, grab the yarn and pull …
9. … until the center is tightly
closed
INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE
Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops.
Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease.
1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single
crochet stitch.
2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second
stitch and pick it up onto the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.
Yarn over …
4. … and draw through both loops on the hook,
completing the single crochet stitch.
FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE
1. Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next
stitch.
2. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
3. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back.
4. And draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use
the yarn tail for sewing, stop here
5. Go through the next stitch, back to front.
6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it
inside the piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle
below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the stitch tight.
3. Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the
needle under both loops.
4. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn
up last time and bring it up under the next stitch.
Draw the stitch tight.
5. Or you can go through the stitch back to front,
inserting the needle under both loops.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up
last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the
stitch tight.
8. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 – 4 or 5 – 7 and go
all around the open piece.
SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH MATTRESS STITCH
When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off.
1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle.
Insert the needle below the yarn tail
and bring it up under the next stitch.
2. Draw the yarn through.
3. Insert the needle under the
vertical bar of the next stitch.
4. Draw the yarn through.
5. Go back in the same hole where
you brought the yarn up last time
and bring it up under the next stitch.
6. Draw the yarn through.
7. Keep repeating steps 3 – 6.
8. Make a couple of stitches. Then
grab the yarn tail and draw the
stitches as tight as you can.
9. Go around the open piece,
drawing the yarn tight after every
couple of stitches.
FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS
The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in
different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the
loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece.
1. Bring the yarn up through a hole
in the fabric.
2. Insert the needle under one
loop of a stitch right next to the
hole.
3. Pull until you have a small loop.
4. Knot the loop and yarn together,
making a double knot. Do not push
the first knot too close to the fabric.
5. Cut off the loop end. 6. Insert the needle into the same
hole, going up and through the
piece.
7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears
into the fabric.
8. Cut off the yarn close to the fabric. 9. Yarn tail will completely
disappear into the fabric.
